A high-toned and very interesting nose. The palate shows and edge more intensity vs the Santenots yet a little less structure and certainly doesn’t show its 14°! Apparently this parcel is always riper than the surrounding vines, but still retains good acidity. With the last swirl the nose is putting on more weight. Another fine effort.
A deeper nose of darker fruit yet still topped with fresh high-tones – perhaps just a hint of reduction in the background. Here we find the structure of the Santenots and in the mid-palate almost (but not quite) the concentration of the Champans. However, there is a real extra dimension on the finish – the wine opens out beautifully.
Medium-plus ruby-red with a cherry-red rim. The nose, despite starting in an understated way, still shows commendable depth and width. The fruit is red and black, quite dense but without any roast notes – slowly gives-up a more intense red-berry note. The palate is quite fresh, with really impressive intensity and length. The acidity is great and the tannins show quite a lot of grain. Very good length indeed. There’s a great future for this ebullient wine.
Medium-plus ruby-red with a cherry-red rim. The nose is wide, some sweet red-cherry and floral notes, slightly mineral too, but not so deep as some. Having had this wine a few times before, I really expected that it might better the Clos des Ducs and the Lafon wine – it’s very impressive, but doesn’t manage to raise the performance bar. Where the previous two wines combine amazing intensity with panoramic width, this one has the concentration but has a much tighter presentation – certainly a rounder shape and nicer texture for sure. The finish is a very good and shows hints of oak spice. Hard to compare as the personality is so different, but on this showing a little behind the top two.
Medium-plus cherry-red colour. A forward and stylish nose that is both wide and complex – high-toned red fruit and violets framed with caramel notes. Similar interest for the palate, if not the intensity of the top wines in the mouth then it matches for interest and complexity. The tannins are less elegant than some, but given the overall performance this is a minor quibble. A very lovely creamy finish. Excellent
I think that the majority of my previous Beaux-Monts have failed to inspire – this one managed to avoid that fate by some margin. Medium-plus cherry-red colour. A lovely nose that combines Vosne-spice with a dense base of ripe red fruit that slowly takes on a higher-toned aspect – still quite primary – but does develop a more caramel aspect with time. The style is that of a middle-weight prize-fighter, taught, lean muscle with no extra pounds. Quite fresh and intense, excellent acidity and well hidden tannins. Doesn’t quite show the intensity of finish of the Drouhin and Jadot wines but matches their ultimate length. A young and very interesting thoroughbred that my tasting partners rated even higher than me!
The first from this en-primeur case. Medium-plus cherry-red colour. A lovely ebullient, wide and complex nose, tons of interest, red fruit, violets and just a twist of caramel-oak. There’s an equal measure of complexity and interest in the mouth – not the intensity or fineness of texture of Nicolas’ Clos des Chênes or the Clos des Ducs from d’Angerville but today much more going on, plus a lovely, creamy, dreamy finish. This is a lovely 99 with more than enough interest – very, very nice.
Medium-plus colour with a deep core of cherry red. A lovely, though slightly understated nose eventually expands to give a creamy, almost bready and earthy base to the red fruit. Concentrated and wonderfully smooth, the palate has real executive tannins, succulently intense, creamy fruit of many layers and very good acidity. By a margin, and to my palate, the d’Angerville Clos des Ducs is the best Volnay I’ve tried 1999, but maybe this wine plays in the same league. From memory I’d still rate the d’Angerville higher, but it would be interesting to try them side by side – one day I will. Lovely wine for now or over the next 10+ years.
I must have loved this one when I first tasted it as there were another 6 in the cellar which I found whilst tidying up. The colour is starting to show a little age. The nose has a little high toned fruit but mostly it’s a dense, slightly sweet affair. The palate shows the vintage without the ‘puppy fat’ the fruit has reasonable density, but there seems to be some acidity missing making the wine much less refreshing and succulent than I remember it on release – perhaps I should have drunk these at the time(?) Still they’ll be handy when I need an extra bottle for something/one, after-all they were quite reasonably priced – I think! It’s a perfectly okay wine, but not in the class of Pavelot’s 00 Dominode.
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