Some reduction with ripe red-fruit aromas – just a little diffuse. Fine tannin that sticks to the mouth, helping prolong the red fruit and savoury finish. I think this is not showing very well…
2007
2007 Roumier Georges Bonnes-Mares
Has ‘chambolle’ aromatics of flowers and pepper, but with the underlying density of Morey St.Denis’ – Christophe. I seem to agree, the nose gives up lovely pure fruit with a more floral top-note. I find the palate very, very mineral – a surprise to me given the unyielding power of many Bonnes-Mares – yet there is undeniable intensity, energy to go with that minerality. The tannins are silky smooth, I noted myself still thinking about those tannins before realising the flavour was still with me – this is very long! It’s actually my first B-M from the domaine, and now I understand why people go nuts for it!
2007 Tremblay Cécile Echézeaux Du-Dessus
100% of the stems retained during the fermentation, it’s been assembled for 1 month, but is still not in bottle. Beautiful fruit on the nose, which is wide but also shows depth and focus – hauntingly good as a beacon of pure red emerges. Width and grainy tannin on the palate that clings to the mouth – but in doing so it adheres flavour so that the finish is even longer. Stands out both for its individuality and complexity – excellent.
2007 Bichot Albert Charmes-Chambertin
2007 Comte Georges de Vogüé Bonnes-Mares
After the Amoureuses the nose is broader, less refined but full of energy – like the premier cru there is a hint of background spice. Mouth-filling with soft tannin and juicy fruit – actually for the first time I have an impression in my mind of ‘risotto rice’ for the tannins – soft but still with a little bite of crunchy texture at their core. François says this can be a characteristic of the ‘terres rouges’ where the domaine’s vines are planted. Long finishing, this wine is not as forceful as some vintages, but I like it all the more for that. Excellent.
2007 Bichot Albert Mazis-Chambertin
(Mazis-bas) Medium, medium-plus colour. Big, open aromas edged with toast – initially needs more focus. More tannin, but not astringent and some dark barrel flavours that dovetail to fresh, dark fruit. I think that this is also not showits best, but there is a real underlying sense that this is a very serious wine.
2007 Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Vieilles Vignes
The nose offers an obvious first impression of flora, yet seems underpinned almost by ‘texture’ and a background hint of anise. In the mouth this is clearly cut from thicker cloth, yet manages to find all the hiding spaces in your mouth in order to attach its lingering flavours. The tannin has some grain to it, but that grain seems ‘loaded’ with flavour. Very, very complex despite my poor attempts to warm the glass. A wine that always impresses in this situation – bravo!