2004

2004 Rion Patrice Chambolle-Musigny Les Charmes

By on November 30, 2006 #asides

Medium, medium-plus cherry-red. The nose is quintessential Chambolle – or at least many peoples’ expectation – soft, sweet red fruit with the faintest savoury edge; it’s very pretty. Versus the domaine’s 04 Argillières there is more depth, intensity and an extra ripeness. The tannins are fully covered. The acidity still has a little tartness, but also helps hold the fresh flavours of the mouth-watering finish. The oak has much better integration here – lovely wine.

2004 Colin Philippe Chassagne-Montrachet Les Vergers

By on October 31, 2006 #asides

Medium-pale lemon yellow. There’s a well-integrated nose of toasted bread and rich fruit. Very forward acidity is the initial impression. The acidity is very smooth and very mineral in aspect, initially rather dominating the linear fruit, but there’s no missing that sneaky and very creamy length. Once my palate adjusted (I don’t think the wine materially changed) I was able to see the extra kick of citrus edged fruit in the mid-palate and appreciate the super purity. Drink this today direct from the fridge or with a buttery sauced dish, alternatively store away for 5 years before revisiting. On day two there’s quite a honied aspect to this wine, and less intensity to the acidity. I preferred day 1.

2004 Colin Marc Chassagne-Montrachet Les Embrazées

By on October 31, 2006 #asides

Medium-pale lemon yellow, perhaps a hint of green too. Open, a little sexy, brioche – quite savoury. The palate has good texture, obviously not the concentration of the 1er crus, but good mid-palate im pact and lingering acidity. This is a very tatsy package that was drunk much faster than intended!

2004 Ardhuy Vosne-Romanée Les Chaumes

By on September 30, 2006 #asides

There’s a tight core of red fruit with cedar overtones on the nose. Understated entry before bursting with fruit on the mid-palate, perhaps this is in-part due to a little petillance, but the texture is very good and the length compelling. Understated middleweight elegance.

2004 Colin Marc St.Aubin En Remilly

By on August 31, 2006 #asides

Medium-pale lemon yellow. The nose is wide and fresh, just a little faint cream behind fruit that’s redolent of fresh-cut pears. Good texture and penetrating acidity that pushes the intense finish long. There’s a strong impression of savoury – though not toasty – oak as you enter the mid-palate. The oak just takes away a little of the fresh vivacity found in today’s tastiest 2004’s but this is still a very good wine that gets even better with aeration.

2004 Tollot-Beaut Savigny-lès-Beaune Champs Chevrey

By on July 31, 2006 #asides

A tighter, finer core of black-shaded fruits on the nose – some depth too. A super fine texture to the palate, just a little more padding than the ‘Lavières’- again dark shaded fruit. I always liked this wine, and here is no exception.

2004 Tollot-Beaut Beaune Clos du Roi

By on July 31, 2006 #asides

High-toned fruit over a depth of dark fruit with hints of oak. Nice texture, lovely purity; the tannins are a little more forward but still quite fine. A super wine.

2004 Lamy Hubert St.Aubin En Remilly

By on July 31, 2006 #asides

Pale yellow. A mix if savoury and sweet plus slowly fading oak that has a hint of toast, eventually sweet fruit that even borders on banana is released. Quite fat in the palate, smooth acidity doing just enough to ‘cut’ the fat to avoid becoming cloying. Really expands on the palate into a super, mineral finish. There is a lot of of wine in the glass – it’s a first-class St.Aubin – I’d drink a few now and then leave a few for 5 years hence.

2004 Bouzereau Michel Puligny-Montrachet Champs Gains

By on July 31, 2006 #asides

Just a little darker yellow than I would like for a ‘new’ wine. Delicate nose with a hint of green pea (like a red in malo) that eventually becomes more golden and honeyed. Nice texture, balance and an interesting length, but this wine is lacking both density and dimension vs Lamy’s 04 St.Aubin Remilly. A nice enough wine, and despite its reasonable cost, if this bottle is representative it is some way short of showing value.

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