Medium, medium-plus cherry-red. The nose is quintessential Chambolle – or at least many peoples’ expectation – soft, sweet red fruit with the faintest savoury edge; it’s very pretty. Versus the domaine’s 04 Argillières there is more depth, intensity and an extra ripeness. The tannins are fully covered. The acidity still has a little tartness, but also helps hold the fresh flavours of the mouth-watering finish. The oak has much better integration here – lovely wine.
2004
2004 Colin Philippe Chassagne-Montrachet Les Vergers
Medium-pale lemon yellow. There’s a well-integrated nose of toasted bread and rich fruit. Very forward acidity is the initial impression. The acidity is very smooth and very mineral in aspect, initially rather dominating the linear fruit, but there’s no missing that sneaky and very creamy length. Once my palate adjusted (I don’t think the wine materially changed) I was able to see the extra kick of citrus edged fruit in the mid-palate and appreciate the super purity. Drink this today direct from the fridge or with a buttery sauced dish, alternatively store away for 5 years before revisiting. On day two there’s quite a honied aspect to this wine, and less intensity to the acidity. I preferred day 1.
2004 Colin Marc Chassagne-Montrachet Les Embrazées
Medium-pale lemon yellow, perhaps a hint of green too. Open, a little sexy, brioche – quite savoury. The palate has good texture, obviously not the concentration of the 1er crus, but good mid-palate im pact and lingering acidity. This is a very tatsy package that was drunk much faster than intended!
2004 Ardhuy Vosne-Romanée Les Chaumes
2004 Colin Marc St.Aubin En Remilly
Medium-pale lemon yellow. The nose is wide and fresh, just a little faint cream behind fruit that’s redolent of fresh-cut pears. Good texture and penetrating acidity that pushes the intense finish long. There’s a strong impression of savoury – though not toasty – oak as you enter the mid-palate. The oak just takes away a little of the fresh vivacity found in today’s tastiest 2004’s but this is still a very good wine that gets even better with aeration.
2004 Tollot-Beaut Savigny-lès-Beaune Champs Chevrey
2004 Tollot-Beaut Beaune Clos du Roi
2004 Lamy Hubert St.Aubin En Remilly
Pale yellow. A mix if savoury and sweet plus slowly fading oak that has a hint of toast, eventually sweet fruit that even borders on banana is released. Quite fat in the palate, smooth acidity doing just enough to ‘cut’ the fat to avoid becoming cloying. Really expands on the palate into a super, mineral finish. There is a lot of of wine in the glass – it’s a first-class St.Aubin – I’d drink a few now and then leave a few for 5 years hence.
2004 Bouzereau Michel Puligny-Montrachet Champs Gains
Just a little darker yellow than I would like for a ‘new’ wine. Delicate nose with a hint of green pea (like a red in malo) that eventually becomes more golden and honeyed. Nice texture, balance and an interesting length, but this wine is lacking both density and dimension vs Lamy’s 04 St.Aubin Remilly. A nice enough wine, and despite its reasonable cost, if this bottle is representative it is some way short of showing value.