1997

1997 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune Grèves Vigne de l'Enfant Jésus

By on July 31, 2007 #asides

The nose is reasonably fresh and quite wide. In this company the palate is very fresh yet still appears balanced. The fruit is tight yet ripe, but is wrapped in fine tannin that adheres to your teeth – they seem ripe enough. This is the youngest wine I’ve yet come across in this series of ’97’s, I would not hesitate in saying leave these for another 5 years. Seems to have real potential.

1997 Mikulski François Volnay Santenots

By on July 31, 2007 #asides

(Magnum) A nice black fruit nose. The palate is sweetly fruited and has ample grainy tannin. A wine that delivers concentration and good balance. I don’t really know Mikulski’s wines but this is a strong advert.

1997 Giboulot Emmanuel Rully La Pucelle

By on July 31, 2007 #asides

Golden colour. The nose is honied and very faintly oxidative – but in a mature wine way rather than a premature problematic way. This is a big mouthful of wine with soft, nice texture coupled to toasty depth. Ready now and very good.

1997 Mugneret-Gibourg Georges Chambolle-Musigny les Feusselottes

By on November 30, 2006 #asides

(From magnum) Medium-plus colour. The nose is surprisingly meaty and spicy, opening ever-wider and at the same time denser red fruit and a more mineral, cedar note comes through. The palate is very fresh and interesting for a 1997 – no dodgy acidity here – though perhaps only medium-plus length. Like the nose, the red fruit on the palate is rather dense and wall-like (like some ’95’s) – little in the way of delicacy is available and I’m not sure if more time will bring it, but this is quite young and almost impossible to pick blind as 1997. It’s still a fine young wine.

1997 Pavelot Jean-Marc et Hugues Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Dominode

By on June 30, 2006 #asides

Medium ruby-red. The nose starts a little meaty taking time to become more and more legant – the last sips have beautiful red fruit – quite haunting. The palate is almost good with ripe fruit of reasonable density, but less than perfect balance – particularly in the acidity department. Coarse and slightly anonymous to start, though lots of air reveals lots of wine. Finishes well, I won’t rush my last 4 bottles…

1997 Boillot Jean Volnay Fremiets

By on June 30, 2005 #asides

Impressively deep colour – quite ruby, no amber at the edge yet. The nose is equally deep, red fruit with a black edge, also hiding in the background is a little toasty oak, but it’s all-but gone. The palate has sweet, fat, ripe fruit, it’s dense, and certainly quite intense. The black aspect on the nose is a little stronger on the palate – good complexity and tannins that hint more to 98 than 97. If there’s a bug-bear it might be the acidity, it seems a little too much to the fore. It’s reasonably fresh, and I’ll leave the last couple for another 3 or 4 years before revisiting.

1997 Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin La Romanée

By on February 28, 2005 #asides

Medium ruby red core just fading slightly to amber. Ash-notes overlay sweet, spicy and slightly plummy red fruit. There’s good texture that’s just a little creamy. The acidity is just a little harsh in the finish but the wine’s quite fat and the fruit has concentration and lasts very well though is quite cooked – reminds me more of Carneros than Gevrey…

1997 Rapet Père et Fils Pernand-Vergelesses 1er

By on February 28, 2005 #asides

Medium yellow colour – looks quite youthful. The nose is fresh with a little butterscotch and honey. The palate is understated but with concentration in reserve. Nice and fresh with good enough acidity. Enjoyable.

1997 Comte Georges de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru

By on February 28, 2005 #asides

I’ve had two bottles of this wine from one source before, and on both occasions there’s been a rather muddy, indeed soupy aspect to the wine – disappointing would be a fair descriptor – particularly when factoring in the price. This wine, direct from the domain, is completely different. For a start it’s much fresher and does without the cooked plummy-fruit aspects of the previous wines. There’s not the purity and focus of the ’93 village Chambolle but neither is this an archetypal 1997 as it still offers good freshness. It’s nice, complex and shows some density. It’s an interesting and good wine, but possibly the weakest of all these wines, at least in terms how they all perform within their respective categories.

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