Medium-plus cherry-red. Some depth to the fruit on the nose and a low-key meaty note – surprising for such a juvenile. Intense cherry cordial on the palate with balanced acidity and tannins that show just a little rasp at the end.. A one-dimensional but long finish. Very easy to drink and given the balance and intensity you could lose this in the cellar for 10 years – no problem.
2002
2002 Bonneau du Martray Corton
2002 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne
A young, pale colour. A wine whose aromatics major on fruit. Seems fat, but needs just a little more time as there’s still a little oak marking the palate. Gives the impression of lower acidity, but perhaps that’s due to the extra fat. Probably starting to sing as you read this – or leave until 2015+
2002 Bertagna Clos de Vougeot
Mainly from 70 year-old vines. Almost as dark as the Perrières. The nose is complex and broad, though not particularly deep. Intense fruit – very much so on the mid-palate. Good acidity and well covered tannins. The tannins are pretty silky – sort of halfway between the Petits Vougeots and the Perrières. Another very good wine.
2002 Fevre William Chablis Le Clos
Pale lemon yellow. The nose starts subdued giving high toned floral aromas, faint green apple and mild peach. With time the peach component becomes stronger. The palate has the hallmarks of great Chablis – purity, just a little trace of fat and a superb length. I felt that maybe a shade more acidity would provide an even better wine, but not enough to stop me ordering half a case for future reference(!) A stealth wine that creeps up on you getting better and better in the glass.