Deeper, redder nose than the bourgogne, high floral tones and some minerality. Sweet palate with very good acidity that is forward and just a little racy – but not aggressively so. Should age very nicely on this balance, just a little faint drying tannin on the finish. This is a world away from most 2003 Santenays, but I rather like it.
2004
2004 Giroud Camille Aloxe-Corton Les Cras
2004 Giroud Camille Gevrey-Chambertin
High-toned red fruit against deeper mineral notes. Sweet palate with slightly drier tannins – lots of high-toned fruit in the mouth that has a really super creamy component in the long finish. Another wine that opens out in the mid-palate to the finish – more subtly-so than the Aloxe. Excellent villages.
2004 Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée La Colombière
Sweet, slightly powdery red fruit, almost a trace of blood-orange too. Following on from the 05’s in barrel, the house-style of supple, very fine tannins is again evident – lovely mouthfeel – it’s almost as if they are not there until you get a little dryness in the finish. Sweet, forward and interesting.
2004 Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée Clos du Château
The nose really foxed me at the start, if the wine had been served ‘blind-folded’ as opposed to ‘blind’, I would have guessed gewurztraminer – it just had that slightly heavy, spicy feel. Swirling, warming and a little time in the glass convinced me that this was actually Vosne-Romanée as the red fruit started to shine through and the spice fade into the background. Again there is great texture and higher-toned fruit vs the Colombière and a slowly contracting finish. The acidity is just on a slightly higher level, and helps to show an edge more elegance than the first wine.
2004 Mischief and Mayhem Puligny-Montrachet
2004 Mischief and Mayhem Meursault
Pear fruit plus an extra density on the nose vs the villages Puligny – though perhaps a little tighter. Lovely, wide fresh palate. The acidity is much more forward, indeed racy vs the Puligny, giving the impression of extra length, but without that wine’s late kick of concentration. The acidity masks the weight of this a little.
2004 Mugnier J-F Nuits St.Georges Clos des Fourches
Bottled only 10 days earlier. The nose is wide and sweet, with violets and red fruits, time in the glass only adds to the penetrating weight of the aromatics – really lovely. The palate shows sweetness and freshness – super acidity – nicely intense in the mid-palate. It’s long with just a hint of bitterness at the end. This bitterness and a slightly up-and-down presentation is most likely from the recent bottling. I’ll keep an eye-out for this.