2005

2005 Belland Roger Santenay Comme

By on June 30, 2008 #asides

A cork amalgum seal. Richly coloured. A super nose – immediately dark and wide with a faint twist of dark oak, then in an instant has lovely red-edged fruit and a dried cranberry note – yum. The palate is actually much more acid-forward than when tasted in November – it’s a harder drink now. I chose to leave it stoppered for 2 days (actually I didn’t plan 2 days, but I was ‘out’ the following night!); on the third day the aromatics still deliver with just a hint of lactic but very nice – more importantly the balance on the tongue has improved a lot. This was a good buy, but will really need at least 8-10 years of slumber.

2005 Drouhin-Laroze Gevrey-Chambertin Au Closeau

By on June 30, 2008 #asides

Medium-plus cherry-red with plenty of purple at the rim. The nose doesn’t have too much depth, but the width is interesting with fresh, precise red cherry/berry notes and an edge of cream. Leave it a couple of hours and you end up with a more classic and forward earthy note edged with cream. Fresh and perfectly balanced with understated but relatively fine tannin. The tannin comes a little more to the fore with time. Not the concentration of many Gevrey 1ers from the vintage, indeed it just seems a little light until you get some 1er cru dimension in the mid-palate and length. Would be a real success in 2004, but in context it’s only almost good in 2005. At any rate it’s interesting, competent, clean and fresh with no overt oak character – it’s also very tasty. At the price I paid (almost 60 Sfr), it’s not exactly great value though.

2005 Liger-Belair Thibault Hautes Côtes de Nuits La Corvée de Villy

By on June 30, 2008 #asides

Medium, medium-plus cherry red colour. The nose starts with quite a dose of high toast oak, but over an hour this moves more into the background to show a little bacon and slight reduction – even after a couple of hours I didn’t get to the fruit. In the mouth it’s ripe and sweet and the oak is very much in the background. Medium-bodied with largely hidden tannins and very nice acidity. The length is excellent and far from woody. Despite the oak style being my least favourite and the nose missing a little dimension, this is a delicious wine that’s very pinot.

2005 Marchand-Grillot Gevrey-Chambertin Les Perrières

By on June 30, 2008 #asides

From 50 year old vines. Deep cherry-red, perhaps a little purple at the rim. An open and forward nose of minty, earthy, brambly blackcurrant fruit that falls into a creamy and eventually a redder depth. Ripe, a little lush, lightly grained tannin and excellently balancing acidity. The fruit flavour is very tasty in the mid-palate. Decent length. No tightening here I think – delicious right now.

2005 Marchand-Grillot Gevrey-Chambertin Petite Chapelle

By on June 30, 2008 #asides

Deep colour. The nose starts quite savoury, only slowly offering a deeper black-fruit core that has a faint white pepper coating. In the mouth this is much more mineral, the acidity is more obvious but retains good balance. The tannins are a little more visible and help the flavour stain your tongue. Good, mineral length with a twist of coffee. Much less comely than the Perrières today, but qualitatively its equal. Another wine I shall buy.

2005 Remoissenet Père et Fils Morey St.Denis Clos des Ormes

By on June 30, 2008 #asides

Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is rather deep, showing macerating dark-skinned cherry and just the faintest of dark oak is perfectly melded to it. After 10 minutes it smelled quite reduced, but another 10 minutes on it was clear. In the mouth there’s deep fruit and of understated intensity too – again the last accent is dark oak, but it’s not much and it’s a young wine. The acidity is good, and frankly the only negative is the slight spritz for the first 30 minutes it was open – after that it got better and better. The tannin is buried and the length is very good. I remember it not being not so cheap, but the quality is self evident.

2005 Croix (des) Beaune Bressandes

By on March 31, 2008 #asides

Medium-plus colour, also with plenty of purple. Deeper aromatics and initially a little reductive – yet only 10 minutes in the glass unlocks round yet full, ripe, dark cherry and higher tones – the aromas cling to the glass. Versus the Montille this is much rounder and fuller in the mouth – it also seems longer, but a fair amount of that flavour is barrel derived. Only about 30 minutes are required for this to fully unwind, yet despite its dimensions, this is a little less complex than the Montille today. Still a super wine.

2005 Gambal Alex St.Aubin Murgers des Dents de Chien

By on March 31, 2008 #asides

Slightly deeper colour versus the 2004. The nose is less wide, but deeper with more fruit and fainter brioche. More width and density, plenty of acidity but it’s just a little prickly. More oaky dimension on the mid-palate and more faintly lingering. There is more material here but today it’s a less seamless package than the 2004. Still great value.

2005 Ecard Maurice Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Jarrons

By on March 31, 2008 #asides

Medium red. Wide, slightly creamy, smooth red fruit dominates the nose. Smooth entry that runs swiftly into an intense mid-palate where the acidity starts to flow and augments a long finish. The mid-palate has some impressive complexity and weight of fruit. This wine delivers impressive concentration and complexity without obvious extraction and tannin. It clearly needs some slumber in the cellar but I’m pleased that I have some bottles waiting.

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