2003

2003 Château Gris Nuits St.Georges Château Gris

By on February 28, 2005 #asides

A lovely nose, sweet and ripe fruit that becomes a little powder with swirling. Good fat but really excellent fruit and a nice texture to boot. Good-plus length – another very nice wine.

2003 Bouchard Père et Fils Meursault Les Genevrières

By on February 28, 2005 #asides

Nicely delineated nose, green skinned fruits. The palate is fitter and finer than the Charmes – in fact this is the first wine that doesn’t shout 2003. Classic (almost) structure and a really super wine.

2003 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune Clos St.Landry

By on February 28, 2005 #asides

Versus 2002 this has a much denser nose with less initial complexity – a few fresh bread notes perhaps. The palate is equally dense though manages to retain almost good freshness. It’s quite nice though I prefer the 2002.

2003 Bouchard Père et Fils Volnay Fremiets Clos de la Rougeotte

By on February 28, 2005 #asides

On the nose there’s a little less ‘punch’ than the ’03 Enfant’. It’s higher toned and mixes red and black notes, slowly giving up a concentrating cherry edge. Super softness, creamy and concentrated fruit with a complexity that is not today apparent from the ‘Enfant’. A slight dry edge to the tannins on the finish. Lovely.

2003 Comte Armand Volnay Fremiets

By on February 28, 2005 #asides

From the bottom of the Fremiets vineyard. racked in September. It’s a vineyard that concentrates the heat, so tends to be picked 2-3 days earlier than close-by vineyards. It’s a mix of 30 and 55 year-old vines and unlike many in Volnay there was no frost here in 2003, still, only 25hl/ha were produced. The cold nose is fresh and shows red berries and a warm edge. Nicely intense fruit in a linear fashion, just an extra brush of tannin on the finish. Very well balanced.

2003 Pavillon Aloxe-Corton Clos des Maréchaudes

By on February 28, 2005 #asides

A deeply coloured wine. The nose is rather closed, but the palate has a lovely covering of ripe, black-shaded fruit that has an extra burst on the finish.

2003 Comte Armand Auxey-Duresses 1er

By on February 28, 2005 #asides

One-third from the climat of Les Duresses (lots of brown clay) and two-thirds from Les Bréterins at the beginning of the village and touching Le Val. Stony soil here with more marl and typically giving a little extra finesse. Good depth to the nose. The palate’s profile is quite fresh with a good grab to the tannins. Perhaps the finish is a little short(?)

2003 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune Grèves Vigne de l'Enfant Jésus

By on February 28, 2005 #asides

Despite the heat of 2003, in the company of the older vintages it manages to neatly display it’s origin, a little redder in the face, a little louder and carrying a few extra pounds, but it’s without doubt Vigne de l’Enfant Jesus. Silky, slightly fat palate with a little oak still to meld. Good tannins and mouthwatering. At this young age the concentration and ripeness of the fruit smothers attempts at complexity, but there’s time for that in the future. It will be very interesting to make the same comparison in 10 years.

2003 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune Clos de la Mousse

By on February 28, 2005 #asides

Compared to many 2003’s this is quite reserved on the nose, more diffuse but deeper than the 2002. The tannins are on a higher level than the two 03’s that preceded this (Monthelie and Beaune 1er Clos du Chateau), but we also have an all-round level of sophistication not found in those wines. An excellent 2003.

Burgundy Report

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