2005

2005 Michelot Alain Nuits St.Georges Les St.Georges

By on November 30, 2008 #asides

Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose hangs with heavy mineral notes, a lovely pure cherry note and faint mushroom in the background. The entry texture is soft and smooth until a strong wall of grainy tannin raises its head. The acidity and the fruit extract are certainly up to the competition, providing a slight burst of complexity in the mid-palate and an oak-tinged lingering flavour. Showing mainly linearity and structure now and muscled structure at that. Tuck it away for a few years, it will need it…

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2005 de Montille Beaune Les Aigrots

By on November 30, 2008 #asides

Medium-pale yellow. Lot’s of high-toned, sherbet notes over stony fruit and occasional hints of brioche. Good freshness, and not too much of the plump fat you often get in white Beaune. Actually there seems a slight family resemblance to the domaine’s Puligny – though clearly the considerable depth of flavour in the mid-palate lack’s for the Puligny’s fineness. I’d like a little more focus on the nose, but there’s no doubting how tasty it is.

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2005 Bourée Pierre Fils Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.Jacques

By on November 30, 2008 #asides

Deeply coloured – purple at the rim. The nose starts with plenty of oak that has a hint of toast but no more – it’s very wide and covers dark-skinned fruit. It slowly evolves, but never shows the complexity and stems of the 2004. Mouth-filling, again there’s oak flavour and some well grained tannin too. The acidity starts a tiny bit forward, though only exacerbates the superb length – those flavours are a lot to do with oak and are eventually just a little bitter, but this is very impressive. Quite some concentration in the mid-palate and certainly it’s a little rustic, but it’s clearly full of wine – better than some GC’s! This will need several years for the wood to move into the background, but it’s a real quality effort that shows personality. I initially bought three, but am now going back for a couple more – clearly built for the long-haul. As a post-script, day two shows little obvious oak, still no stems and a better balance. All good signs – okay, maybe I’d have liked a little stems…

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2005 Faiveley Joseph Volnay Santenots

By on November 30, 2008 #asides

Medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour. The nose is not exactly effusive, but it has quite some depth of dark dried fruits and a more herbal top note. Very good texture then quickly a grainy tannin builds and the acidity seems just an afterthought – yet perfectly draws you into the finish. The mid-palate flavour and finish are cracking – intense and very long – chocolate and a little strawberry shaded oak tannin is the diminuendo. Not as typically brutal as the Lafon version, nor indeed what you might expect from Faiveley, but a super wine.

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2005 Prieur Jacques Beaune Les Grèves

By on June 30, 2008 #asides

Medium-plus colour, with flashes of purple. A super, super young nose of faint, creamy creme brulée over dark, almost jellied fruit – it’s rather exciting. In the mouth it’s superbly intense, balanced by gushing, but super acidity. The one down-side (for me) is that the dominant flavours are mainly dark, bitter-chocolate oak. Certainly plenty of power, and the lingering flavours end with fruit rather than oak, so I expect time will suck up most of the wood – if not all those toasted flavours – it might (one day) even taste like Beaune! I’m quite impressed by the gusto here and may add a couple to the cellar.

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2005 Jomain Marc Puligny-Montrachet Combettes

By on June 30, 2008 #asides

A medium lemon yellow colour and a nose of citrus width, though never developing anything other than a little brioche depth. The palate is quite a mouthfull and initially reasonably textured, but as it slowly slides to the finish there is a little oaky texture and a lot of oak flavour. Despite concentration and intensity I’m currently missing freshness and a 1er cru mid-palate dimension. It’s a little one-dimensional and far from mouth-watering. I wouldn’t open another for 3-4 years to let the oak subside and hopefully unleash the wine within. The oak just needs time, but where will additional freshness come from(?) I won’t quite describe it as humble pie, but after 48 hours in the refridgerator, there’s a nice extra creamy dimension on the nose and palate, and that oak has largely melted. I’d still like more acidity but this is at least a ‘maybe’ now…

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2005 Jomain Marc Puligny-Montrachet Perrières

By on June 30, 2008 #asides

Medium-pale lemon yellow colour. Width, and after their Combettes a more obvious higher-toast oak depth, with cream-edged pear fruit. The palate is more lithe and linear with better acidity. Good dimension in the mid-palate and the oak is less jarring and textured, super length here. This also needs 3 or 4 years for the oak to lessen, and the higher toast is not my beau, but there’s real quality here. Already after 2 hours open the high toast is transformed. Not as obviously dense as the Combettes but finer balance.

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2005 Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Varoilles

By on June 30, 2008 #asides

Medium-plus colour. The nose starts with a wild brambly black fruit – slowly goes deeper with faint caramel. Wide and intense – again with dark-hued fruit. Reasonably well-packaged tannin and very good length though the tannin resurfaces here. It’s still brusque and bruising in its intensity so will need a few years in the cellar – but I will buy a few for the ride.

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2005 Parent Pommard Epenots

By on June 30, 2008 #asides

The aromas are a little tight, but at it’s centre is a super core of red/black fruit. Wide, with velvety

tannin and excellent acidity. The fruit chases the acidity into the finish while the tannin clings to the

inside of your mouth. This will require some cellar time but has all the components to be a wonderful

bottle down the line…

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