Medium ruby-red colour – already showing some older colour. The nose initially has none of the green 04-ness, though a little develops over-time, it is, however, on such a low level that it really is additive and makes from cedar at the top, down to its creamy edge at the bottom, with faint clove in the middle – a rather superior if not textbook Vosne nose; I’m very impressed. In the mouth it’s a long way from my expectation; there is only a hint of the ripe sweetness of the vintage, but the overall balance is reminiscent of a 1996 with it’s acid-forward stance. There is super dimension to the fruit too. This is far from an average ready-to-drink-now 2004 and very different to my 04 villages beau (from Mugneret-Gibourg), but this is an interesting mid-term cellar candidate – maybe 2 more bottles…
Vosne-Romanée
2006 Mischief and Mayhem Vosne-Romanée
Faint spiced bread overlays a denser undercurrent of fresh plummy fruit that slowly transforms onto cherry
and even redcurrant notes. Good ripenes and slightly grainy tannin. There is a strong and wide impression
in the mouth that pushes unchanged into the finish. This would also benefit from a year in the cellar, but
is already quite drinkable and very tasty.
2005 Perdrix Vosne-Romanée
Deep colour. Initially diffuse aromatics that hint at a spicy depth, they tighten over about 1 hour to offer-up clean black fruit and some minerality. Mouth filling, concentrated, then bursts across the mid-palate with typical Vosne flavours if far from subtle, but to good effect. The tannins are quite well mannered and the finish lingers with an element of oak flavour – but it’s the only woody note. Fresh and tasty, and without overt oak character, but more obviously in need of cellar time than many.
2001 Mugneret-Gibourg Georges Vosne-Romanée
Medium colour. The nose is just a little alcoholic at the top over pretty, spicy red cherry and occasional wafts of coffee. Lovely texture but at this age the ‘puppy-fat’ has faded and the acidity is now more to the fore – the overall effect is now ‘only just ripe’. Cool red, tart cherry-fruit remains at the core and the finish is quite long. Just a little gawky now, but there are a few in the cellar for another day.
2006 Clos Frantin Vosne-Romanée
2006 Gambal Alex Vosne-Romanée
2006 Potel Nicolas Vosne-Romanée
Despite the nose starting a little more diffuse than the Gevrey – faint spice and a trace of coffee – I love it when you sniff a wine and can instantly say ‘Vosne’, and here you can. The palate is at the same time understated, but also quite forward – still well controlled though. Ripe tannins and a tight but lovely length.
2005 Remoissenet Père et Fils Vosne-Romanée
From bought grapes. Deeper in colour than yesterday’s Beaune. The nose starts a little diffuse and coarse – seems affected by CO2 – 10 minutes brings cohesion, deep spicy fruit and a trace of smoky coffee – actually it keeps getting better and better. Very nice. The palate starts very grainy – dissolved gas for sure. With 30 minutes of air you get much friendlier texture, slightly forward acidity but an impressive width as the flavour flows into a good finish. Versus the Beaune you miss a little tension and gras – this is also more expensive; a) your paying more for the name and b) it’s more expensive than the same bottling from e.g. Bouchard Père. It’s good and I enjoyed it, but it doesn’t show the same level of value.