High tones mix with faint reduction. Forward acidity on the palate but with sweet fruit to match. The tannins are less svelte than the prior 2005’s and show just a little bitterness in the finish. On the plus side there is good density of flavour here. At it’s level this is almost good.
2004
2004 Vougeraie Gevrey-Chambertin La Justice
2004 Vougeraie Vougeot Clos de la Prieuré Rouge
2004 Comte Armand Auxey-Duresses
Medium yellow – perhaps already with a glint of gold. The nose started rather exotic and ripe but quickly settled to a core of brioche and sweet pastry with a faint pineapple rim. Almost lush in texture this gives the impression of being from a much riper year than 2004. Reaching the mid-palate the texture is a little less smooth and rolls into a medium finish. Nice, but probably just a little heavy in the mid-palate for a rebuy chez Nanson.
2004 Drouhin Joseph Rully
The nose is denser than the 05 Chablis, a little fatter too. Hidden in there is an interesting note that gives me the impression of beans – haricot blancs sounds better – but it’s much nicer than it sounds, honest! Made in barrel means the texture in the mouth is more plump and less mineral than the Chablis, but it gives a longer impression on the palate, there’s nice acidity too. Very good and stylistically very, very different to the Chablis which is my preferred style. The oak has added shape, rather than flavour.
2004 Esmonin Sylvie Gevrey-Chambertin
Deep cherry-red colour. Slight reduction can’t hide earthy, creamy blackberry and blackcurrant aspects on the nose. The palate is ripe and again very black-fruity – brambly – and with helpful acidity moves seamlessly through slightly grainy tannin to a black finish edged with cream – maybe a hint of coconut too.
2004 Ardhuy Pommard Les Lambots
A shiny medium cherry-red. The nose is pure pine-needles and cedar – slowly a more fruit-driven effect comes into the mix but over about 20 minutes it is never more than a secondary characteristic. The palate is acid forward, seemingly it needs just an edge more ripeness. The best part of this wine is its texture – very nice finely grained tannins – the finish is not too bad and seems riper than the rest of the wine. Works reasonably well with food, but the borderline ripeness means it would be challenge on its own.
2004 Coche-Dury Pommard Les Vaumuriens
Medium-plus cherry red. The nose is sweet ripe and only with time betrays the faintest trace of cedar. Wide and friendly, the aromatics are sweet oak with a creamy edge to the red fruit. One sip and you’re hit by fresh, crunchy red and black fruit and grainy tannin – quite the extrovert – given the nose I expected something much more plush. The finish is quite long for a villages, showcasing those grainy tannins. This improved in the glass and was quite a crowd-pleaser.
2004 Dugat-Py Bernard Pommard Le Levrière
Deep cherry-red. The nose starts quite reduced with sulfur and hints of mushroom – hard to get at the fruit – slowly it warms to give a bright, high-toned beacon of pure red fruit. The palate has a perfectly (oak) upholstered texture, really impressive concentration, good acidity and surprisingly only a mild grain to the tannin. This is quite mineral and shows a long finish, akin to having (I’m assuming!) a piece of coal in your mouth. From the mid-palate onwards this is much more impressive than the Coche. Very impressive.