A later harvest for this wine – another 10 days after the ban des vendanges to allow the phenolics to ripen. Medium, medium-plus cherry red. The nose is sweet and starts a little heavy, slowly becomes a little higher toned over vanilla notes. The palate is fat, ripe and sweet, just a little purer cherry fruit at the back of the palate that follows into the vanilla driven finish. Tannins and acidity are conspicuous by their absence – actually everyone loved this, but I suspect it will be at it’s apogee over the next 5 or 6 years, rather than 15-16, not too much obvious ‘Vosne character’ either at this pre-release stage.
2003
2003 Bouchard Père et Fils Monthelie
Only 40% of the normal crop from this vineyard despite being planted in the north-south orientation, hence, affording some protection from the direct 2003 sun. Jumps out of the glass, amazing nose, it’s pure, fresh blueberry. Mouthfilling with, by a significant margin, quite best fruit I’ve ever seen in a Monthélie! Grainy tannins and an unexpected freshness. Bravo, I expect this wine will be a steal!
2003 Bouchard Père et Fils Meursault Les Clous
From high on the hill by the cross of St.Christophe, roughly north-east facing and often quite a windy site so typically providing an extra freshness. The soil is the same as the Meursault premiers but from around 40 metres higher. Of Bouchard’s 12 hectares of village wine, 8 comes from here. High-toned, a mix of estery and floral notes. Sweet with some fat and density, but there’s some mouthwatering on the finish to provide balance. This almost good for a 2003.
2003 Bichot Albert Mercurey Champs Martin
The land (1.0 ha) was only purchased recently. Medium-plus cherry-red. It’s a ripe nose that is both fresh and a little earthy though tighter than the last wine. Good breadth to the fruit and harmonious acidity and tannin. This is a young, fresh and quite explosive package that has a good shot at elegance as the structure softens – very interesting.