2003

2003 Clos Frantin Vosne-Romanée

By on February 28, 2005 #asides

A later harvest for this wine – another 10 days after the ban des vendanges to allow the phenolics to ripen. Medium, medium-plus cherry red. The nose is sweet and starts a little heavy, slowly becomes a little higher toned over vanilla notes. The palate is fat, ripe and sweet, just a little purer cherry fruit at the back of the palate that follows into the vanilla driven finish. Tannins and acidity are conspicuous by their absence – actually everyone loved this, but I suspect it will be at it’s apogee over the next 5 or 6 years, rather than 15-16, not too much obvious ‘Vosne character’ either at this pre-release stage.

2003 Bouchard Père et Fils Monthelie

By on February 28, 2005 #asides

Only 40% of the normal crop from this vineyard despite being planted in the north-south orientation, hence, affording some protection from the direct 2003 sun. Jumps out of the glass, amazing nose, it’s pure, fresh blueberry. Mouthfilling with, by a significant margin, quite best fruit I’ve ever seen in a Monthélie! Grainy tannins and an unexpected freshness. Bravo, I expect this wine will be a steal!

2003 Bouchard Père et Fils Meursault Les Clous

By on February 28, 2005 #asides

From high on the hill by the cross of St.Christophe, roughly north-east facing and often quite a windy site so typically providing an extra freshness. The soil is the same as the Meursault premiers but from around 40 metres higher. Of Bouchard’s 12 hectares of village wine, 8 comes from here. High-toned, a mix of estery and floral notes. Sweet with some fat and density, but there’s some mouthwatering on the finish to provide balance. This almost good for a 2003.

2003 Bichot Albert Mercurey Champs Martin

By on February 28, 2005 #asides

The land (1.0 ha) was only purchased recently. Medium-plus cherry-red. It’s a ripe nose that is both fresh and a little earthy though tighter than the last wine. Good breadth to the fruit and harmonious acidity and tannin. This is a young, fresh and quite explosive package that has a good shot at elegance as the structure softens – very interesting.

2003 Bichot Albert Chassagne-Montrachet

By on February 28, 2005 #asides

Deep cherry-red. The nose is deep, interesting and covered by a higher-toned layer. Big though not burly, there is more fat and grainy tannin, but there’s plenty of balancing acidity. Successfully avoids being ‘rustic’. Reasonable length too – good wine.

2003 Pavillon Pommard Clos des Ursulines

By on February 28, 2005 #asides

High-toned nose. Real density without too much fat. Ripe, but in the best sense. Well structured with just a little earth on the tannic finish. Very, very young, I’d buy.

2003 Pavelot Jean-Marc et Hugues Savigny-lès-Beaune Blanc

By on February 28, 2005 #asides

Actually contains some old-vines (50 yo) pinot blanc. Pale yellow colour. The nose bursts with melon, pineapple and green-apple skin. Some fat, and despite a mouthwatering finish, my taste begs more acidity. Whilst quite simple in the mouth there’s a really engaging and long finish.

2003 Comte Armand Volnay

By on February 28, 2005 #asides

From 0.3 hectares, clay-soil over limestone. Due to Spring frosts only 15 hl/ha. Lovely high-toned nose. The palate has good freshness with little of the extra fat of the vintage. Good fruit and velvetty tannins – this is an excellent start.

2003 Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée La Colombière

By on October 31, 2004 #asides

Medium-plus colour. The nose has intense fruit – more blue shaded than red. The palate has obviously ripe fruit that shows real depth, velvetty tannin. Intense and not at all jammy, this wine shouts out to advertise itself and is very impressive.

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