Medium red, still with a twist of cherry colour. The nose bounds from the glass, wide, quite high-toned and with a sweet cooked apple centre. Rather forward acidity that needs just a little helping density than is apparent. The flavour is found from the mid-palate onwards but mingles with slightly bitter tannin. Length is good, just a suggest of dried currants. Reading this note, I think I’ve made the wine sound less appealing than in reality it was, but overall it seems to need a little more density to balance the structure – perhaps it has already peaked(?)
1999
1999 Grivot Jean Vosne-Romanée Bossières
Deep ruby colour with a browner caste. The nose has a beefy depth and starts heavily, slowly giving up higher, more herby notes and guarded black cherry. The palate is loaded with soft tannin, concentration that builds into the finish and, overall, seems quite balanced. The acidity seems on a lowish level but that’s partly because of the strength of the fruity extract, but lingers well in the finish. What’s missing just now is a measure of elegance – perhaps it will come with age – I won’t open another in the next 5 years.
1999 Tortochot Gevrey-Chambertin Les Jeunes Rois
1999 Roty Philippe Marsannay Champs St.Etienne
1999 Roty Joseph Marsannay Les Ouzeloy
Medium ruby colour. The nose is more like the 99 Roty bourgogne, a little estery and diffuse. This has a similar tartness to the fruit too, much less friendly than the Champs St.Etienne which at this stage I would certainly take ahead of this. Given about 1 hour from opening the texture improves, more fat and slightly less tart. Almost good concentration and some sweetness, but I’d still go for the St.Etienne.
1999 Château Chorey-les-Beaune - Germain Pernand-Vergelesses Les Combottes
1999 Barthod Ghislaine Chambolle-Musigny
Short note, two days after drinking. Medium cherry-red. Soaring if rather tight nose, very elegant with high, fresh tones. The palate is also a little tight, but, like the nose, very elegant. The acidity carries it through the mid-palate into a good finish. Good concentration and has the balance to last very well.
1999 Clair Francoise et Denis Santenay
1999 Potel Nicolas Volnay Vieilles Vignes
I’ve one superb and one really good Potel 1er Cru from Potel in 99 (Clos des Chênes and En Chevret), time to see how the villages is getting on. Medium-plus ruby-red colour to a watery rim. The nose is dominated at the start by toasty oak – unusual for a Potel wine – though slowly this goes through a caramel stage before it majors on the fruit: beautiful, clear red berries before becoming rather indistinct. Fresh and quite intense though I think there is still rather a lot of oak on the palate where it’s the most likely the source of those grainy tannins. There’s plenty of material here but I’m not 100% sure it will eventually overcome the ‘muddying’ effect of the wood – after-all it’s already 4 years since release. Still, however, I managed to enjoy it to the last drop.