2003

2003 Bouchard Père et Fils Chablis Vaillons

By on June 30, 2006 #asides

Medium lemon-yellow. The nose is sweet, shows a little exotic fruit and honey. Slightly fat, good concentration and apparently good acidity given the mouthwatering finish, but falls short of racy. Rather lumpy and borderline harsh on first opening – never really improved over two hours – so only ‘okay’.

2003 Grossot Corinne et Jean-Pierre Chablis Les Forneaux

By on June 30, 2006 #asides

Medium lemon yellow colour. Relatively fresh, some width, delicate and interesting. Density, indeed slightly unruly density – also not quite the freshness that I crave. But there’s dimension and power in spades, and the wine is obviously far too young. Needs 3 or 4 years in the cellar, but there’s more material than in many a grand cru and the finish lingers with a creamy edge. If there was just that edge more of acidity I’d be filling my cellar!

2003 Rion Daniel Vosne-Romanée Les Chaumes

By on June 30, 2006 #asides

Deep coloured. A tight nose of high-tones of violets and a meaty depth, nice fruit at its base, eventually a mocha note develops too. This is quite an interesting wine that has some freshness and linear, primary concentrated fruit – spicy tannins are certainly to the fore, and with a little astringency and perhaps missing a little ripeness, but to drink today I would rate this way higher M&P Rion’s NSG Argillières below – they key is freshness.

2003 Rion Patrice Nuits St.Georges Clos Des Argillières

By on June 30, 2006 #asides

Deep coloured. The explosive nose is full of deep sweet oak, certainly quite OTT at this young age. The palate is deep & sweet, mixing easily with completely covered fine tannins, lots of sweet oak on the sweet fruit is hard to take. Medium-plus, very sweet length. I have another bottle to prove me wrong in the future, but today there is nothing here that I look for in Burgundy – my wife loved it!

2003 Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Varoilles

By on March 31, 2006 #asides

Deep colour. The starts with a blast of camphor/menthol, slowly turns to cedar and opens out with high-toned red berry fruit and just a hint of volatility – eventually widens – becomes super. The first mouthful leaves little impression, save for a lovely penetrating length and a certain smoothness. Linear fruit, slightly grainy tannin and acidity that is just a trace tart. If the palate develops as well as the nose, this is on the buy list.

2003 Rion Daniel Vosne-Romanée Les Chaumes

By on February 28, 2006 #asides

Deep coloured. A tight nose of high-tones of violets and a meaty depth, nice fruit at its base, eventually a mocha note develops too. This is quite an interesting wine that has some freshness and linear, primary concentrated fruit – spicy tannins are certainly to the fore, and with a little astringency and perhaps missing a little ripeness, but to drink today I would rate this way higher M&P Rion’s NSG Argillières below – they key is freshness.

2003 Bouchard Aine Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Peuillets

By on February 28, 2006 #asides

From 40 year-old vines raised in 30% new oak. The nose is rather ashy. Lots of material here, a wine that slowly expands into the finish. The fruit is pretty good but I find the tannins currently rather ungainly, to a certain extent, spoiling the fruit in the mid-palate. Everything seems ripe, so given 3-5 years for the tannins to soften and it might be almost good.

2003 Moreau J. et Fils Chablis Montmains

By on February 28, 2006 #asides

The nose is wide though a little dense. Sweet, almost honey palate. The acidity is not bad. Surprisingly long finish and just about fresh enough. Almost good.

2003 Gagnerot Evelyne Beaune Les Reversées

By on February 28, 2006 #asides

Deep colour. The nose is not to my taste, porty, meaty and overcooked. Sweet fruit is paired to grainy tannin with some acidity on the finish. The tannins could be a little unripe, but that’s not so easy to tell given the concentration of the fruit. Anyway ungainly and I found it quite hard to drink.

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