Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is fresh, slightly minty but just a little jammy – raspberry jam. On the palate there’s classic 96 fruit/acidity balance, in this case relatively sweet fruit. Not the depth or concentration of the Castagnier Clos Saint Denis that preceded it but the length is comparable. Anyway, this was a beauty.
1996
1996 Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Varoilles
Medium ruby red, just a trace of amber at the rim. Not as high-toned as many and no spice, but the red cherry comes through just like the others from this vineyard. Concentrated with fresh acidity and good tannins – in fact lovely concentration. The finish doesn’t linger as long as the ’97 Varoilles but this is very much my preferred style.
1996 Gros Michel Vosne-Romanée Clos des Réas
1996 Thomas-Moillard Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts
Deep ruby, lightens a little at the rim. The nose shows a blast of fruit – more plum than cherry. There’s real depth, more than many from this vineyard, but perhaps not the width or expanse (if you prefer) of the best. The palate has perfect acidity and smooth but sneaky tannin that creeps up on you. There’s good intensity to the fruit, but it’s perhaps a little one dimensional – same with the finish. An enjoyable wine – I enjoyed it to the last drop – but it’s missing a little of what Malconsorts can offer, or at least at this obviously young age it is.
1996 Jadot Louis Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Vergelesses
1996 Château Chorey-les-Beaune - Germain Beaune Les Cras Vieilles Vignes
Medium-plus ruby only fading very slightly at the rim. The nose starts with pronounced toasty oak, very quickly blowing off to reveal toasted bread and deep black cherry. In the mouth there’s nice volume, excellent acidity and beautifully controlled smooth tannins. Still a little one-dimensional, but a wine to savour for the next 15 years at least – excellent.
1996 Château Chorey-les-Beaune - Germain Beaune Les Cras Vieilles Vignes
Medium-plus ruby only fading very slightly at the rim. The nose starts with pronounced toasty oak; very quickly blowing off to reveal toasted bread and deep black cherry. In the mouth there’s nice volume, excellent acidity and beautifully controlled smooth tannins. Still a little one-dimensional, but a wine to savour for the next 15 years at least – excellent.
1996 Verget Chablis Montée de la Tonnerre
Medium toast oak and a hint of something green on the nose – lime I think, gradually becomes buttery and honied. The palate is powerful and rich, showing very good acidity, just a little butter and very long. Despite just a trace of bitterness on the finish I think this is excellent wine, though the oak blurs the ‘sense of place’ for me.