Bouchard Père et Fils

2004 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune du Château

By on June 30, 2008 #asides

Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is deep and oaky; dark, sweet oak rather than overt toast and there’s not a trace of vintage cedar. In the mouth it is similarly dominated by the oak. Certainly there is decent, sweet intensity behind the wood and a more than lingering finish – it really is very long – but frankly on day one, whilst it’s a tasty oak beverage, I can find little to suggest Burgundy, let-alone Beaune! This is usually one of the best value cuvées you can buy from any négoce so I gave it a chance: Day 2. The nose remains deep, a little musky – not so much oak but still hard to spot the fruit – perhaps dark-skinned plum, but on the negative side as it warms in the glass you get a hint of ash. In the mouth it now has a higher-toned dimension and plenty of sweetness. The length is unchanged and I’m happy to report that it shows more of a creamy than vanilla edge. This is significantly improved, even if I still wouldn’t guess Beaune! If you want to drink Beaune, then decant this at least 5-6 hours before drinking. If you just want a delicious glass, pop and pour.

1928 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune Avaux

By on March 31, 2008 #asides

From a heavy glass bottle that at first glance looks more like a magnum. The label indicates this as a premier cru, though the vintage pre-dates premier cru AOC’s by about seven years – it was labelled after 1935 says my host! Vernal colour, medium at the edge, deep at the core. The nose is hardly older than Le Corton and slowly widens to provide tiny red berry fruit aromas. In the mouth it’s ripe, but not too ripe and very long. Despite the quantity of solid material in the bottles (and some glasses) this vigorous wine still shows a lick of tannin and never faded in the glass over 2 hours. It isn’t magical in terms of complexity – it shows too damn young – rather it’s magical in terms of what it delivers from a a very different world of eighty years ago. Blind you might place this as late 1980’s early 1990’s – that’s clearly magic!

2006 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune du Château

By on March 31, 2008 #asides

A mix of red berries and an additional darker aspect which seems to be from the oak. Ripeness, intensity, lovely acidity and a creaminess to the fruit that covers the slightly grainy tannin. There is some oak flavour but it’s not overdone. Lingers well on the tongue – as usual it’s an easy ‘buy’ recommendation.

2006 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune Grèves Vigne de l'Enfant Jésus

By on March 31, 2008 #asides

A softer and redder nose. A narrow entry but it bursts across the palate with accessible ripe fruit – structure and complexity follow in the next wave. I think it follows the Bèze much more successfully in 2006 than it did in 2005. Super.

2006 Bouchard Père et Fils Volnay Fremiets Clos de la Rougeotte

By on March 31, 2008 #asides

Medium colour. Wide aromatics with focused red fruit and faint oak. Mouth-filling with lots of well-managed tannin and super acidity. A long creamy finish with plenty of oak flavour.

2006 Bouchard Père et Fils Volnay Taillepieds

By on March 31, 2008 #asides

The nose goes a little deeper than the Fremiets with darker shaded fruit. There are still plenty of tannins, a little astringent but also a little finer. More flavourful and with a little more dimension of higher-toned fruit on the palate.

2006 Bouchard Père et Fils Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée Carnot

By on March 31, 2008 #asides

A little softer, red fruits and faintly floral. In the mouth too, soft and a little silky with sweet fruit. There’s a little burst of complexity in the mid-palate before you are hit by some astringent tannin. I feel the oak showing more on the grainy texture than the aromas or flavours.

2006 Bouchard Père et Fils Volnay Clos des Chênes

By on March 31, 2008 #asides

Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose relatively high-toned with a faintly caramel background. Ripe fruit, super acidity, plenty of controlled tannin and a dark-oak background. Quite pleasurable already this wine.

2006 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune du Château

By on March 31, 2008 #asides

From 4 parcels; Aigrots, Tuvilains, Sizies and Sur Les Grèves. A deeper nose than the bourgogne, more brioche too. A richer and softer texture in the mouth. Plenty of mid-palate interest and a decent length. The acidity is understated though I never felt it to be lacking.

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