A little deaper colour. The aromas start a little heavy and more forward, at the core there is fine complexity but this builds additional dimensions and balance as it aerates – a few minutes in the glass, and the heavyness is gone replaced by a ’roundness’. Really beautiful texture, complex, and with mind-changing mid-palate complexity. As it builds in power it develops an almost buttery texture, but at its core rather than over your teeth and cheeks. Only eventually does the acidity leach from the side of your mouth to prolong the finish. Really special and very approachable today!
2007
2007 Bouchard Père et Fils Corton-Charlemagne
The aromas are instantly panoramic, a little mineral and of fresh flowers, not as ’round’ as the Montrachet. In the mouth this is totally different; narrower (relatively!), more mineral and perhaps more muscular – just the same character as the red Le Corton – long and wiry. Supple and perfectly balanced, showing fresh flavours all the way into the finish. Really high-level Charlemagne.
2007 Dublère Corton-Charlemagne
From the Pernand side of the hill – had to wait until 17th September to harvest these grapes. 50% new oak. The complex nose has a hint of understatement but shows plenty of floral notes and maybe a hint of SO2. Like the Chassagne, it’s hard to take the intensity, though this time it has just a little fat to smooth the texture. Really good weight of extract – this is very impressive.
2007 Lamarche Francois La Grande Rue
A 7th September harvest and lots of triage – only about 60% the number of bottles versus an ‘average’ harvest. One year in barrel and a relatively early bottling ‘to keep the fruits’. Medium cherry red colour. The red shaded cherry fruit is a little candied and slowly builds a width of of understated spice notes. Plenty of volume in the mouth, and whilst offering up savoury aspects, they have a creamy coating – the flavours slowly insinuating into your palate. Really super length that has a hint of oak wedded to creamy fruit – there’s a little oak texture too, but you can see that it’s already fading. This is a fine grand cru.
2007 Potel Nicolas Echézeaux
2007 Potel Nicolas Grands-Echézeaux
10% stems here. More aromatic width but less depth versus the Echézeaux, but the complexity is on a higher level and there’s a faint muskiness. Fills the mouth with pure, ripe fruit then a super mid-palate burst. Last thoughts are a hint of astringency that’s long forgotten as the flavour eventually fades – super.
2007 Potel Nicolas Clos de Vougeot
2007 Potel Nicolas Clos St.Denis
2007 Potel Nicolas Clos de la Roche
A little more aromatic width than the Clos St.Denis, but the core of fruit is tighter – initially impresses more than the last wine, but in the end is pipped by the former. Sweet, ripe, intense and very long. I normally prefer CSD, but today, maybe not. This is very long with just a hint of metallic flavour in the finish – surely just a phase. Excellent.