Medium, medium-plus colour. Less forward aromatics, but more complex, mixing earth, coffee and red fruits. Mouth-filling structure though the tannin doesn’t overwhelm. There is a sneaky extra dimension of power and fruit in the mid-palate. Some barrel influence on the finish. This is actually very good!
2006
2006 Guyon Echézeaux
2006 Leflaive Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet
2006 Perrot-Minot Christophe Charmes-Chambertin
2006 Perrot-Minot Christophe Chapelle-Chambertin
2006 Perrot-Minot Christophe Mazoyères-Chambertin
Medium, medium-plus colour. Again the same caramel as the last wines – which is disappointing – but this time on a lower level and overlaid by pretty higher tones. Here the structure and concentration show in a more obvious manner, but the wine is intense and essentially fresh. Very impressive if not yet ‘comely’.
2006 Chézeaux Griotte-Chambertin
The colour is just a little darker. Aromatically I started with some concerns; the cork had a bad, rancid, almost volatile smell to it, some of that showed up as ‘inner mouth perfume’ as Burghound would say – far from perfume though – but fortunately it was only very faint on the nose. Mouth-filling, plenty of very fine tannin and a width of fine red fruit that’s both sweet and lingering. It’s quite a long way from the stunning depth of the 05, but then there is enough of that strange taint that I won’t rate it and would certainly send it back in a restaurant. I didn’t open a second one right away to see if it was better…!
2006 Perrot-Minot Christophe Chambertin
No dark monster this – merely medium colour. The nose is different this time – good! – it’s mainly fruit that is focused yet still complex and very round – wow. Maybe there are some toasted barrel flavours, but this wine is wide, complex and concentrated. Frankly, everything that a Chambertin should be – super.
2006 Chézeaux Clos St.Denis Très Vieilles Vignes
Medium, medium-plus colour. A wide nose of delicate red and black berries, some high-toned alcoholic notes and a little dried cranberry. The palate needed time in the glass – a little prickly – becoming ever-smoother and and longer, showing the silkiest of tannins. I have to say that it impressed but didn’t ‘wow’ – normally I am wowed by this cuvée.