A much more delicate nose, subtly complex and still very, very interesting. Even another step up on the Echézeaux – wonderful mouth-watering complexity. An absolute stunner.
Comments for this entry
2004
2004 Boisset Jean-Claude Clos de la Roche
From 50 year-old vines – only 2 barrels. Medium-plus colour. Wide and complex nose though not so deep, showing black shaded fruit and just a trace of black olive. Lots of tannin clings to the inside of your mouth, but the fruit is quite enough of a match. Quite lovely length, again a super wine, but today I just prefer the Charmes.
2004 Potel Nicolas Bonnes-Mares
A tight and mineral nose with plenty of higher floral aspects. In the mouth this earthy and direct, concentrated and muscular. The fruit is certainly a good foil for the structure but this wine will require several years in the cellar. Very impressive but for my own taste less compelling than the Clos St.Denis, Echézeaux or Grands-Echézeaux – or come to think of it the Fuées or Petits Monts.
2004 Gambal Alex Corton-Charlemagne
2004 Gambal Alex Clos de Vougeot
This year 4 barrels from two suppliers. Medium colour. The nose is very tight so giving little away, though a touch of cedar is apparent, eventually a little high-toned cherry evolves. Good, well textured tannins coupled to good concentration. Another 2004 Clos de Vougeot with classic austerity. Needs plenty of time.
2004 Bouchard Aine Echézeaux
From vines approaching 60 years-old. A wide nose with some high tones, but again a little tight and showing no depth. The palate shows plenty of grainy tannin and reasonable spicy concentration. It’s clean, but many 1er crus deliver more intensity, depth and complexity, so I can only describe this as ‘okay’.