2002

2002 Mugneret Dr Georges Echézeaux

By on October 31, 2005 #asides

Medium, medium-plus cherry-red. High-toned, a pure core of red-cherry perfume that’s under-pinned with subtle spice, swirling accentuates the spice. Ripe tannins and intense red-fruit compete with acidity that needs a little taming. Tons of complexity and purity, fading from the mid-palate burst into the medium-plus-length finish. No shrinking violet this one, but the quality is quite apparent – save for at least 5 years before returning.

2002 Rousseau Armand Clos des Ruchottes

By on October 31, 2005 #asides

Medium, medium-plus cherry-red. The nose is a little tight, high tones over a tight red and black centre. Wide and fresh palate, very elegant, fine tannins leave a soft coating on your teeth and gums. Understated but very well read, this can talk to you on any level you wish. Lovely.

2002 Leflaive Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet

By on October 31, 2005 #asides

Medium yellow colour. The nose has depth combined with a high-toned top note. Lovely texture, waxy without becoming cloying. Long, still oak tinged at the end. The mid-palate shows a high-toned profile, somewhat mineral rather than fat. Very balanced and accomplished, but missing a hint of excitement.

2002 Guyon Echézeaux

By on October 31, 2005 #asides

A new domaine to me, but one that looks worth searching out. A medium-plus ruby red core in the glass. Hints of black olive compliment the black-skinned cherry fruit on the nose, some spicy pepper too. Medium density is the impression on the palate but wide and intense is the fruit on the mid-palate. Interesting and complex though the acidity finished just a little roughly at first – rounding with time in the glass. Medium, medium-plus length, complex and with some nice sweetness. Also very good Echézeaux!!

2002 Comte Georges de Vogüé Bonnes-Mares

By on October 31, 2005 #asides

Deep cherry-red. A brooding nose that mixes red and black fruit, though black is dominant, with a coffee edge. Concentrated and tannic. Starts on full power, a gradual diminuendo is the character of the wine – well it couldn’t go higher! – fading very slowly into the finish. It’s fully-packed with material and shows great balance. Not a hint four-square, but I wouldn’t consider opening this bruiser for at least another 8 years.

2002 Bouchard Père et Fils Chablis Bougros

By on October 31, 2005 #asides

Pale, yellow coloured. Bright, forward – even effusive – nose, with sweet candied fruit, a hint of salty seashore and lots of precision. Concentrated with a beautiful lingering acidity that pushes the sweet flavours very, very long – the fruit is very ripe, but not so as to spoil the balance. Frankly, apart from that whisp of seashore on the nose, this doesn’t say ‘Chablis’ to me, but it does say ‘buy more’ – and I will – you can’t get this level of value on the Côte de Beaune!

2002 Romanée-Conti La Tâche

By on October 31, 2005 #asides

Already lost much of its youthful colour, just a trace of cherry still at the rim compliments a core of medium-plus ruby. Starts with a blast of fruit, becomes mute for a while, then starts to show its wares, complex fruit laced with spice notes that you really only get with La Tâche – almost ginger cake – just a trace of oak toast and smoky stems in the mix too. There’s an understated entry into this wine before a fabulous burst of fruit rushes you from the mid-palate into the finish. The soft tannins are buried and the acidity is just right. It needs an hour from opening to blossom, but this was a stellar performance for such a baby.

2002 Rousseau Armand Chambertin

By on October 31, 2005 #asides

Medium-plus cherry-red. Creme brulee and red fruit presented in a very linear way. Takes a few minutes in the glass to open out, but really starts to shout ‘look at me!’ – mainly barrel influenced notes, coffee in the background too. The palate has an extra ‘fatness’ to the palate vs the Bèze, fireworks here too, they build a little more slowly but to equal effect. It’s hard to make a preference here – it can only be based on stylistic leanings – but today, with fewer barrel artifacts and its more ‘athletic’ pose, I’d take the Bèze.

2002 Rousseau Armand Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze

By on October 31, 2005 #asides

Medium-plus cherry-red. A wild mix of brambly black fruit and subtle oak toast on the nose, gradually becoming higher toned with a hazelnut-coffee edge. The entry is smooth, then the wine explodes on your palate before slowly shrinking into the very long finish. Lithe and slender in complexion despite the evident concentration. Plenty of fireworks here – a very, very impressive wine.

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