1998

1998 Guyon Antonin Corton Clos du Roy

By on June 30, 2004 #asides

Instantly too young, tannic/astringent. Improved plenty with food and an hour in a decanter – so I’ll give you the latter version! Medium/medium-plus core of cherry red that slowly fades to the rim. The nose starts with a blast of high-toned red and black fruit, settling down to subtle high-toast oak and a concentrated mix of black fruit and meaty tones. Ripe, deep black fruit and tough in a Corton style. There’s some grain to the tannin and a medium-plus length. Good, but wait at least 3 years.

1998 Gros Frère & Soeur Grands-Echézeaux

By on June 30, 2004 #asides

Almost the wine of the series – were it not for the cork! The cork itself was slightly unusual in that the only inscription it bore was the number 983 – even the GF& S Bourgogne told me more. Said cork also had an unusual rancio-type of note – there it was in the wine too – unless you swirled and then it was gone – clinged to the palate though. So everything was dumped into a decanter to see if I could shift the smell, it wasn’t overpowering, but it was enough to spoil (my) enjoyment. The decanter failed to clear the ‘problem’ so I had to make a quick swirl with the wine before each time putting nose to glass. The colour showed no obvious oxidation – a lovely deep ruby colour with minimal fading to the rim. Post swirling the nose was first-class young, aristocratic Bourgogne, depth, bloody dried cranberries, coffee, dried currants – so complex. The palate showed none of the astringency of many, the tannins marked by a slight grain, but nothing more. The acidity is shows up on the mouthwatering finish, which despite no explosion lingers really well. But then the real taint came through – it had to be the GE that was tainted didn’t it(!) I got a new bottle, but didn’t see the point in opening it – I know it’s a superb wine – cork permitting!

1998 Fevre William Chablis Le Clos

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

Pale gold. A fresh nose of grapefruit. The palate betrays a little (oak induced?) harshness, but this softens with aeration. As the harsh note fades there’s a waxy-smooth character to the palate with a creamy butterscotch on the medium plus length finish. Despite good concentration and even with time in the glass I didn’t really warm to this wine

1998 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

Light yellow. The nose doesn’t burst from the glass quite like the 1997 currently does. With time and swirling you can coax out a little sugar coated pineapple. The mildly oaky palate has good acidity, understated concentration and a finish that builds and builds – I expect the opposite with Corton-Charlemagne! Seemed fatter with the langoustine and not bad with the goat’s cheese. Overall a bit disappointing

1998 Drouhin Joseph Griotte-Chambertin

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

Medium ruby with a cherry red colour at the rim. The nose is of red berries and a cedar note which grows with time. Lovely silky texture – more so than the 1999, though not instantly apparent there’s super fruit concentration – it’s just so well balanced with the acidity. Some slightly rasping tannin on the long and creamy finish – not quite as long as the 1999, but this wine is much more forward and drinkable. Lovely.

1998 Chézeaux Griotte-Chambertin

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

Perhaps a little deeper colour than the previous wines, still cherry at the rim. Just a little more complexity on the nose, there’s a musky undergrowth to the cherry and raspberry fruit. The tannins are more drying – in fact very drying – but they are finely grained. Given the texture and concentration of the fruit I’m not really concerned about the tannins – though I think you will always know they are there. The finish is a good one, there’s even an unusual orange note. A concentrated, interesting and very young wine.

Burgundy Report

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