Pale gold. The nose takes a while to do what’s expected of it as it’s rather diffuse to start with. Time brings out a little fat and finally sweet and slightly buttery fruit that more than hints at Puligny. This is nicely balanced with good fruit, good-enough acidity and reasonable length, but vs Jean-Marc’s 1997, 1998 & 1999 it’s currently a little harder to find that extra Puligny dimension. Tasty and still a nice wine.
Drank directly after Robert Gibourg’s Morey. Medium, medium-plus ruby red. Again high toned but much more fruit on the nose. A step-up in concentration, but after ten minutes taint starts to dominate the palate before creeping into the nose too. Bottle two was not so obviously high-toned as the first but still relatively so. Colour and density were the same as bottle 1. Still a step-up from the Gibourg, but just missing a little sweetness. It compliments food, but doesn’t make a completely satisfying solo drink, like many 2000’s today it is hiding its charm.
Medium cherry red, perhaps shading to a more ruby hue at the rim. The nose starts more oaky and with disappointingly thin fruit – it needs the oak to dissipate to give a more interesting balance, and dissipate it does leaving a nice high-toned expression. Eventually it’s a sweet mix of slightly caramel-tinged red fruit. Nice mouthfeel, less apparent concentration and not such a long finish, though the acidity is almost good. Tasty, very well balanced and serious but ultimately less serious than the excellent 2001.
Amongst a sea of tiring 2000’s – mainly from the Côte de Beaune – it’s nice have a drop that still shows both energy and interest. Medium, medium-plus young colour. Crushed black cherry nose. Refreshing, succulent black fruit that turns a little creamy on the finish. There’s a little oak and a trace of astringency but it’s not tiring yet. Just in case, I’m going to drink-up the last three of these and enjoy them now.
Medium, medium-plus cherry-red – no obvious maturity. The nose gives-up slightly soapy red cherry, eventually improving by losing the soap and soaring ever higher. The palate has fresh acidity and tannins that are a little forward and astringent. The fruit has some black tone but is more balanced to red. The fruit has some density but at first was not enough to counter the structure. You would have spat this out with a wince on opening but there was quite a transformation with time, becoming fatter and more open – in fact quite palatable with food – but without it’s a bit charmless right now so you might as well wait a while…
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