Medium, medium-plus ruby-red. The nose is a nice sweet mix of red fruit, perhaps just a little roast. The palate is tasty and well balanced, no hard edges, no roughness or dryness to the tannins. Good acidity. An above average villages, particularly good value in 1998.
1998
1998 Mortet Denis Gevrey-Chambertin
Medium-plus colour, still quite primary. The nose has spicy, meaty black fruit with a touch of licorice. The palate shows a similarly black aspect, nice acidity and smooth tannins. The finish is surprisingly long with a hint of earthy, minerally cream. An obvious winemaking signature at work, but a tasty wine all the same.
1998 Jadot Louis Puligny-Montrachet
1998 Boillot Jean-Marc Puligny-Montrachet
Pale gold. The sweet nose starts with a toasty blast that fades to provide a trace of pineapple and butterscotch. The palate is equally sweet with a pleasing balance, nice acidity and a good length. The fruit is nicely concentrated but doesn’t really shout ‘Puligny’ to me. Puligny or not, this bottle was enjoyed, hence, finished much faster than expected. Perfect now and very tasty.
1998 Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin Clos du Meix des Ouches
Despite having more to offer than meets the eye, this wine visually disappoints. The colour is a medium-pale, ruby-amber – it could be a weak looking 1985. The nose blows off a few slightly cooked and woodland notes to reveal a still, quite primary red fruity base. The fruit could be more concentrated on the entry, but there is a kick in the tail – a surprisingly intense mid-palate – then a medium, not so exciting finish. Improves quite a bit overnight but frankly I don’t know what to make of this wine. If I had a few in the cellar I think I’d drink all bar a couple and check them out for academic interest in a few years.
1998 Boillot Jean-Marc Givry Clos de la Brulée
Pale lemon yellow. The nose starts with a waft of wood to be replaced by a little spent-match and a trace of honey. The palate has piercing acidity with just enough (even for my acid loving palate) sweet fruit to act as a foil. The fruit style is very agrumes with grapefruit in the ascendant. Medium-plus length, a lovely refreshing drink for the summer terrace and one that exceeded my expectation.
1998 Arnoux Robert Vosne-Romanée
Given the block-buster reputation of this domaine’s V-R Suchots I was mildly surprised by this village wine. Medium but young colour. The wine really sings on the nose with beautiful red-cherry pie and a very interesting but slightly tighter depth. The palate is sweet, medium bodied and very elegant. Good acidity pushes the finish longer and longer. The tannins are there and in the slightly dry ’98 vernacular, well behaved but perhaps begging a little more fruit concentration. Elegant to start with, but the tannin does start to get in the way without food, very good with though.
1998 Amiot-Servelle Chambolle-Musigny
1998 l'Arlot Côte de Nuits Villages Clos du Chapeau
Medium ruby red, shading slightly to amber. The nose starts with sweet, creamy, toasty oak of sufficient volume to drown out traces of fruit. Given time (45 minutes) a little plummy fruit comes through. The equally sweet palate shows fat, depth, soft tannin and understated acidity that flows into a slightly creamy finish. You can find a little candied fruit, so tasty, but I like a little more fruit, so would personally wait another year or two to see if any appears.