Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.Jacques

1993 Rousseau Armand Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.Jacques

By on November 30, 2006 #asides

(From magnum) Medium-plus ruby-red colour. A deep, intense, meaty nose that starts with a slightly diffuse width. There is also a faint oaky component to the depth, but it’s mainly consumed now – with time the fruit really tightens and focuses. In the mouth this wine is still immensely youthful – 10 extra years would provide ample benefit – the acidity is like a roller-coaster into the finish, and a very impressive and intense finish it is too. Bravo, but still a baby.

2001 Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.Jacques

By on October 31, 2006 #asides

Medium ruby-red colour straight to the rim. The nose starts deep and rather oakier than I normally associate with Fourrier, above the oak the vista slowly opens with higher tones and an impression of sweet vanilla. Slowly a core of red fruit starts to develop, but if anything it becomes a little more diffuse. You really need 24 hours to see the oaky veil lifted a little and some weighty depth with floral hints and deeper savoury notes- this should be the final transformation of the oak. The palate is fatter, smoother and sweeter than the Jadot, less direct but equally intense from the mid-palate into the finish. The finish is also a little vanilla influenced and also very slightly bitter – though less-so than the Jadot. In its first hour and despite the extra plushness of the palate I’m leaning toward the more athletic, focused and precise pose of the Jadot. With time the intensity and depth are more apparent than the vanilla.

2001 Jadot Louis Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.Jacques

By on October 31, 2006 #asides

Medium, medium-plus colour – still holding onto cherry-red – but only just. The nose starts with considerable width but not much depth, there’s an undertow of sweet creamy earth but little else. Slowly the nose begins to blossom with tight red fruit, cranberry and red cherry, eventually redcurrant too. In the mouth this is superbly intense and after you swallow; it’s very much like the sides of your mouth are leaking as the finish goes on and on. The overall effect is of a taught and wirey wine with tannins that are quite smooth with faint astringency and just a trace of bitterness. With time the bitterness is lost yet its tightly wound transparent nature remains true – no change.

2002 Clair Bruno Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.Jacques

By on September 30, 2006 #asides

In hindsight it was more of a mistake not to ask for larger glasses in the restaurant than to delay the request for a decanter – this wine was a missed opportunity. Over about 90 minutes the wine never opened out on the nose, subdued aromatics of red fruit with a faint black edge. From time-to-time I imagined more, but then it was gone. The palate is that of a perfectly balanced, linear light-middleweight that is fine of tannin and shows good freshness. On this outing the length is also unremarkable. Too tight for interesting.

2002 Rousseau Armand Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.Jacques

By on October 31, 2005 #asides

Medium, medium-plus cherry-red. High toned, red and black cherry nose plus a little earthy undercurrent against a creamy oak background. Balanced, fresh and elegant with real intensity. Lovely silky palate. The finish is long with that creamy oak thing still apparent. Very lovely wine – and I mean very!

2001 Rousseau Armand Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.Jacques

By on February 28, 2003 #asides

Again medium colour. The nose whilst subdued is more interesting than the previous ‘Ruchottes’. Lovely in the mouth – great fruit. Mouth-watering acidity and good tannin. Excellent.

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