There’s plenty of 2004 about this nose but there’s also good, mainly high-toned red fruit too – it’s very pretty. Plenty of tannin that shows some astringency but a good length – a bit of 04 flavour too. This is currently drinking, but compromised.
The nose offers up the 04 ‘vintage characteristic’ – [Christophe agrees that there were ladybugs everywhere but is unconvinced that they are responsible, though has seen no plausible alternative. On the positive side he quips ‘at least you always know the vintage in a blind tasting!’] – it provides a cover, but not on such a level that it spoils the red fruit aromas. Only medium concentration after the 2005, this is altogether on a softer, less ‘big’ level. The entry is quite narrow but the width comes as you head for the mid-palate then leaves your mouth slowly watering in the finish. The tannins stick a little to your gums and the overall balance is very nice. This is very tasty. Christophe: “It never tastes/feels like it smells – I like it for that”
A rare négoce bottle of Clos St.Jacques. A deep core of already ruby-red colour – quite deeply coloured for a Bourée. The nose is the usual interesting blend of smoky Bourée stems a faint undertow of cedar, earthy Gevrey notes and another faint undertow of mushroom – the last droops in the glass hold a lovely pure redcurrant note. In the mouth there’s good texture; the plentiful tannins are not so astringent and are very well covered. There’s clearly plenty of concentration here, though the acidity shows a little too tart for the first hour, hence, defining the wine and becoming the major aspect of a very long finish. Density and complexity on the mid-palate is very good. This is a very young wine that improved in the glass such that the acidity was much less forward (maybe I was just ‘used’ to it) after an hour or so, but it is also today, slightly compromised by low levels of the 2004 green but there’s is plenty of wine here so my remaining bottles will stay at least 10 years in the cellar – if the green fades into the background it will be an excellent wine.
Medium ruby-red. Depth and dimension on the nose – really grandstanding at the moment, and the oak is barely perceptible. Mouth-filling and concentrated, there’s good depth and plenty of tannin. There is a little oak flavour, but nothing compared to what its 05 and 06 cousins currently show. The finish is a little warm, but long. Very well balanced and has the sweet fruit which is the hallmark of the vintage. In a lovely place right now, but no need to rush.
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is deep and oaky; dark, sweet oak rather than overt toast and there’s not a trace of vintage cedar. In the mouth it is similarly dominated by the oak. Certainly there is decent, sweet intensity behind the wood and a more than lingering finish – it really is very long – but frankly on day one, whilst it’s a tasty oak beverage, I can find little to suggest Burgundy, let-alone Beaune! This is usually one of the best value cuvées you can buy from any négoce so I gave it a chance: Day 2. The nose remains deep, a little musky – not so much oak but still hard to spot the fruit – perhaps dark-skinned plum, but on the negative side as it warms in the glass you get a hint of ash. In the mouth it now has a higher-toned dimension and plenty of sweetness. The length is unchanged and I’m happy to report that it shows more of a creamy than vanilla edge. This is significantly improved, even if I still wouldn’t guess Beaune! If you want to drink Beaune, then decant this at least 5-6 hours before drinking. If you just want a delicious glass, pop and pour.
Medium ruby red, already a little development at the rim. The nose starts a little like roast red tarts with an overlay of herbal, slightly cedarish notes. In the mouth there’s nice enough texture but the tannins coupled with the acidity will certainly make your mouth pucker – it’s an interesting contrast to the ripe fruit. A nice middle-weight wine with food, but more challenging without. I’m not unhappy to have drunk my first Pitangerets, though I’m not straining at the leash for the next, at least not from 2004…
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