2003

2003 Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin La Romanée

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

At first glance and sniff, this looks and smells like a 2003 – blind tasting to that level of accuracy need hold no fears! Medium-plus cherry-red with not a hint of lightening or ruby colour. The nose starts very ripe with plenty of powdery red fruit, but time opens quite a distinct coffee note and eventually a very well defined and intense red cherry/cranberry impression. In the mouth this is concentrated, soft, intense with a good burst of fruit on the mid-palate – it’s a very ‘worthy’ 1er Cru – the finish is quite long and the only part that hints of some oak. The tannins are very well covered. This is a great success for the vintage, and even if you are just a little agnostic about the character of 2003, I think you will find plenty of fun here – and that’s not to say there is no longer-term serious side to this well-priced wine.

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2003 Drouhin Joseph Beaune Clos des Mouches

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

It’s a wide, slightly dense nose that slowly develops baked red fruit notes. The palate is also a little dense, showing plenty of grainy tannin – though it’s not so astringent. The fruit has a slightly roast impression, but for all that is really quite interesting. Overall this comes across a little rustic and lacking finesse. Fans of 2003 will enjoy it for sure, but it’s not my ‘bag’.

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2003 Tollot-Beaut Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Lavières

By on September 30, 2006 #asides

Deep cherry-red. The nose starts a little foisty – sulfurous funk, not taint – some oak too. Just a few minutes of aeration and it is much cleaner; there is width and a mix of savoury and tight red & black fruit elements and some oak, clearly 2003 from the aromatics. Quite dense vs the other vintages, relatively low acidity but there’s a very sneaky length. The texture is actually very good, there are plenty of grainy tannins but they are hidden behind the concentrated fruit. It’s not my favoured style but it has been executed very, very well. The oak whilst ever-present eventually gives a slightly black-olive edge to the wine.

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2003 Leroy Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Narbantons

By on September 30, 2006 #asides

Deep colour. The nose is dense and tight; there’s a little oak-gilded black fruit, only deepens a little after 25 minutes in the glass. Lower acidity than the 04’s, though quite well balanced. The finish is dominated by toasty oak – though not ashy. After the 04’s this is rather ponderous and extracted – there is also perceptible petillance – but it would be a shame to judge this so young, particularly after the ultra-different 2004’s that preceded it. Revisit when it’s 15 years old, but given the price (3 times the price of the 1999) I won’t be joining the ride!

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2003 Leroy Gevrey-Chambertin Les Combottes

By on September 30, 2006 #asides

Deep colour. After the Nuits the nose is more mineral and wide showing mainly black fruits, time in the glass only adds to the intensity. The palate is lithe, muscular and again black shaded. There’s real intensity and length – this wine comes across as less typical of 2003. Versus the Nuits this has a different level of refinement, focus and, frankly, class. A Fantasic wine that would outperform many grand crus – shame it costs double the price of the Nuits.

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2003 Château de Monthelie Monthelie Sur la Velle

By on July 31, 2006 #asides

Medium-plus colour. A mix of deep and ripe cherry and raspberry, faintly edged with coffee. Sweet, dense, long-lasting flavours with just a little dryness from the tannin. Very-much 2003, but a very friendly and accessible wine.

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2003 Rion Daniel Vosne-Romanée Les Chaumes

By on June 30, 2006 #asides

Deep coloured. A tight nose of high-tones of violets and a meaty depth, nice fruit at its base, eventually a mocha note develops too. This is quite an interesting wine that has some freshness and linear, primary concentrated fruit – spicy tannins are certainly to the fore, and with a little astringency and perhaps missing a little ripeness, but to drink today I would rate this way higher M&P Rion’s NSG Argillières below – they key is freshness.

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2003 Rion Patrice Nuits St.Georges Clos Des Argillières

By on June 30, 2006 #asides

Deep coloured. The explosive nose is full of deep sweet oak, certainly quite OTT at this young age. The palate is deep & sweet, mixing easily with completely covered fine tannins, lots of sweet oak on the sweet fruit is hard to take. Medium-plus, very sweet length. I have another bottle to prove me wrong in the future, but today there is nothing here that I look for in Burgundy – my wife loved it!

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2003 Sigaut Hervé Chambolle-Musigny Les Chatelots

By on June 30, 2006 #asides

Deep colour with a purple rim. The nose starts heavy and a little soapy (or maybe that’s the glass?), it takes about 15 minute to become an interesting mix of very ripe black skinned fruits and deep cherry. The palate is reasonably well balanced and shows almost good texture. Again the dominant aspect is the ripeness of the fruit. Perhaps just a kick of complexity at the end, medium-plus length. Relatively simple, but hard not to like, a nice wine.

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