A relatively deep yellow. A nose of toasted bread and spices and an undertow of creamy fruit. Lovely texture and singing acidity. The flavours straddle the border between sweet and savoury and have super length and intensity. Despite containing about 20% chardonnay, you’d never mistake it for one!
2001
2001 Parent Pommard Epenots
2001 Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.Jacques
A lovely fine and elegant nose of quite some complexity – red fruits and earth. The palate is long, faintly mineral and very wide in the mid-palate and into the finish. Perhaps a little unruly – let’s say over-exuberant as it finishes but much complexity here too. An impressive and characterful wine.
2001 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune du Château
2001 Drouhin Joseph Vosne-Romanée Les Petits Monts
Medium-plus ruby-red colour. The nose starts wide, wild and fecund – very impressive – but within 25 minutes it’s a shadow of its former self; higher-toned, fresh and herbal – spicy but without the earlier power. The palate is lithe, linear and undemonstrative – somehow metallic tasting. On the plus-side there is excellent texture and an implied rather than overt power. The length is impressive if rather understated. If I’m honest, there’s nothing here today except potential and more left the bottle for day 2 than normal. Day 2: much of the nose is returned, high-class Vosne, almost textural aromatics. The palate has improved some – mainly the width and length of the finish, but whilst there is enough to tempt me to buy more – this wine has become very difficult to find – you really should avoid opening bottles today.
2001 Arnoux Robert Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots
Medium, medium-plus ruby red colour. The nose starts with heavy, sweet oak that totally obscures any fruit. The palate is jam packed and quite well textured, but my first impression is the creamy coconut on a finish who’s duration is frankly amazing for a 1er cru, it’s even like toffee after (over) a minute. The overall stance of this wine is medium-weight and it really has first-class balance – though I couldn’t find anything to indicate the village, let alone the vineyard for the first hour it was in my glass. The most telling comment came from my wife – and she wasn’t tasting (yet) – “what’s wrong, why are you pulling a face – is it corked?” – I didn’t know I was being watched! Two hours(!) in there’s a finer red fruit note just starting to appear above the sweet, soft base. Unlike some very expensive names in 2001, this wine has very ripe, if understated tannin and is excuisitely made, but particular in style. Going forward from here is quite simple; if you want a very high quality wine to luxuriate in, drink this wine right away. If, however, you want to drink a very high quality wine that reflects its origin, then don’t even think of opening one of these before 2012 – or you will be disappointed – in fact, make that 2015!
2001 Colin-Deléger St.Aubin Les Charmois
Wide, just a little tight yet waxy with some pleasing depth and and a twist of citrus. The palate is plush yet at the same time reasonably mineral; it expands and expands in the mouth with a waxy, concentrated texture and length that has a faint impression of coconut but for all that seems fine. It’s not a cheap example of St.Aubin, but on this hot evening it’s certainly an impressive one; it’s open and very tasty. It actually followed a bottle of Jadot’s 2005 bourgogne chardonnay, and despite the quality of that wine, this is a major quality advancement.
2001 Bertagna Chambolle-Musigny Les Plantes
Medium ruby-red colour. The nose is quite creamy with toffee-edged understated red fruit and wider higher tones. The palate is rather fine but rather slender; it’s very well textured with faintly grained tannin and really good length. I think it needs a little extra density for stardom, but this is a lovely subtle and complex wine.
2001 Drouhin Joseph Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru
In 2001 this was assembled from 4 vineyards: Borniques, Les Plantes, Les Combottes and 13 rows of Hautes-Doix. The nose starts a little dense, but slowly opens, softens and becomes more subtle; minerality somehow wrapped in fine fruit. In the mouth this is quite linear with some slightly dry but well-textured tannin. There is lovely complexity and a good length. Understated concentration (30 hl/ha this year), this is very young, but very lovely