1998 Forey Père et Fils Vosne-Romanée Les Gaudichots

By on June 30, 2005 #asides

Medium-plus red, more ruby than cherry, gently fading at the rim. The nose is quite forward but also rather dense, red fruit and an underlying cedar/mineral note. The palate starts in a very understated way almost to the point of there being something missing, but the intensity builds into quite an impressive mid-palate and very long finish. The acidity is a touch bright in the finish but there is nothing at-all astringent about the tannins. I wine that I felt lacking at the start, only to finish with me lamenting a lack of wine! Very good and I think better than the 2000 I’ve previously tasted.

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1998 Arnoux Robert Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots

By on June 30, 2005 #asides

Purer and denser nose than the 98 Corvées Pagets, higher toned too. The palate is fresh and is one of those crescendo wines that builds with intensity. Still primary but very, very long and understated – I’m quite impressed by this.

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1998 Arnoux Robert Nuits St.Georges Les Corvées Pagets

By on June 30, 2005 #asides

Less expressive on the nose, linear with a herbal note. The entry is understated, but there’s really impressive burst of fruit from the mid-palate onwards. Very good acidity and there’s the perception of something green on the finish.

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1998 Château Chorey-les-Beaune - Germain Beaune Les Cras Vieilles Vignes

By on June 30, 2005 #asides

Younger, deeper ruby-red colour than the Garaudet that preceded it. Where the Garaudet’s nose was high-toned and fruit driven, this is much deeper and more savoury with an edge of oak. Very fresh palate, the tannins show in a grainy fashion but not drying. There is a long and creamy finish, the fruit is tight and linear with a black-olive edge – doesn’t show the friendly face of the last wine but has plenty in-hand for the future.

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1998 Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin La Romanée

By on February 28, 2005 #asides

Starts with rich, chocolaty fruit but within 3 or 4 minutes overpowered by taint…

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1998 Gambal Alex Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots

By on February 28, 2005 #asides

A wine that followed the ’96 Drouhin Musigny and despite that, a very good showing. The colour is medium red, halfway between between cherry and ruby. The nose eventually becomes a lovely blend of sweet red and black fruit following ~40 minutes of so-so performance. Nicely concentrated and complex fruit of interesting and mouthwatering expression. The acidity is good and the tannins are a little grainy – but none of the astringency of some ’98’s. The finish is mouthwatering and quite long too. Very nice wine without a doubt.

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1998 Boillot Jean-Marc Beaune Montrevenots

By on June 30, 2004 #asides

A premier cru you don’t see so often, it lies above Cols des Mouches and borders Pommard’s (villages)Le Bas de Saussilles. Deep cherry red. Lovely nose of red and black fruit, nice purity too. The palate shows deep black fruit, good acidity and tannins that start quite drying – good texture despite the astringency. After two hours in a decanter there’s balance and tons of interest – the tannins don’t seem so bad now – maybe they’ve dissolved the inside of my mouth! Has pure fruit and excellent density that should easily outlast the tannin, more a Pommard than a Beaune.

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1998 Potel Nicolas Santenay Beauregards

By on June 30, 2004 #asides

Medium-plus cherry red. The nose is red – a lovely blend of raspberry and a little strawberry. Straight from the bottle the palate’s a little coarse, but softens with some aeration. Succulent fruit with faintly drying tannin and good acidity. This is a big-fun wine, save it or dunk into a decanter and drink now.

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1998 Tollot-Beaut Savigny-lès-Beaune Champs Chevrey

By on June 30, 2004 #asides

Medium-plus cherry red. Nose is high toned, a lovely raspberry- cherry mix – biased to raspberry, below is a subtle and fading vanilla. The palate is wonderfully smooth, with super acidity, red fruit and a really stand-out length. The silky tannins in this case don’t share the astringency so common in their Côte de Nuits cousins. Excellent – I’ve bought some more.

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1998

1998 Forey Père et Fils Vosne-Romanée Les Gaudichots

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1998 Arnoux Robert Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots

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1998 Arnoux Robert Nuits St.Georges Les Corvées Pagets

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1998 Château Chorey-les-Beaune - Germain Beaune Les Cras Vieilles Vignes

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1998 Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin La Romanée

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1998 Gambal Alex Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots

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1998 Boillot Jean-Marc Beaune Montrevenots

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1998 Potel Nicolas Santenay Beauregards

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1998 Tollot-Beaut Savigny-lès-Beaune Champs Chevrey

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