Deep ruby-red, not 100% bright. The nose betrays what must have been a fair whack of oak in this wine’s youth, but it’s coming together now – just a little creamy with smokey, dusky black fruit. Fresh, mouthwatering acidity, fine density to the mid-palate and a lingering finish. Perhaps it’s just a little tart to be described as very well balanced, however, very enjoyable though it’s my last…
1996
1996 Niellon Michel Chassagne-Montrachet La Maltroie
1996 Château Chorey-les-Beaune - Germain Beaune Les Cras Vieilles Vignes
1996 Bertagna Vougeot Clos de la Perrière
A big, heavy bottle. Deep ruby colour with very little fading. Starts with lots of depth but gradually a piercing red fruit note comes through. Fresh palate with really super, slightly creamy but also slightly saccharin length. Doesn’t have the fatness of the 1993 and it also has a slight grain to the tannin. This wine shows great balance and an ever-changing, in fact exciting nose, I’m looking forward perhaps another 3-5 years to a time when, hopefully, the palate will show as much interest as the fantastic nose and lose that slightly confected saccharin finish.
1996 Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Varoilles
Bugger! After opening I noticed a few bubbles in the neck – I turned round to get my glass and when I returned the bottle was standing in a puddle of wine! How strange thought I – do they may sparkling reds? – then I realised that there had been a crack in the bottle, mainly covered by the label. Pulling the cork was enough to make the crack give-way. Unfortunately enough air had obviously got through over time as the wine was oxidised. Underneath it was concentrated and seemed to have good fruit – I’ll have to get another…
1996 Rion Daniel Nuits St.Georges Les Vignes Rondes
Wow – what a wine! A very deep and young looking colour. The nose has high tones over a meaty base. This wine assaults the palate with massive fruit concentration, but the acidity of the vintage manages to provide a modicum of balance. There is little tannin and a medium-plus finish. I’d still leave it for a couple of years, but if you don’t mind obliterating the taste of your food – try one now.
1996 Grivot Jean Nuits St.Georges Les Roncières
Medium plus colour, just a slight shading to amber at the rim. The nose has a few sweet flowery tones that overlay equally sweet red fruit. Lovely concentrated fruit and very smooth, Grivot was in a sweet vein with this wine in 95/96. There’s concentration without over-extraction, perfect acidity, tannins that are very well behaved for a Nuits, though just a trace of bitterness. Many years ahead for this wine and I’ll probably save the rest for at least 2 or 3 years.
1996 Giroud Camille Pommard Clos des Epeneaux
See above for an explanation of this wine’s provenance. Direct from the cellar, the colour shows little sign of age. The nose is slightly fuller than the 2000 but stylistically similar. The palate has a little extra dimension, but there is an amazing family resemblance to the 2000 – amazing considering the different vintages and elevages. I’d say they need a similar time to maturity too. Would be a great buy.