Medium-plus cherry red. Lovely high-toned nose over sweet red cherry. The palate is less fat than the 2002 and has much fresher acidity that comes across as a little harsh – doesn’t show the concentration of the last wine. Medium tannins that are quite smooth. The finish is a good one, this time with no wood. Much less charming than the 2002 though.
Varoilles
2000 Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Varoilles
The 2001 disappointed slightly after the 2002, but we’re back with a bang here. Medium cherry red, just fading a little at the rim. The now characteristic high-toned nose supported by cherry red fruit is in evidence. Lovely fruit with real depth – much friendlier than the last wine, but certainly not a ‘short-termer’. This is a really fine effort for a 2000, has everything it needs for 5-10 years of development.
1999 Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin La Romanée
1999 Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Varoilles
1998 Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Varoilles
Medium cherry red, a paler salmon shade at the rim. The nose is not so pronounced but has the high tones of the other ‘varoilles’ though with a much deeper spicy aspect and some chocolate. Good concentration to the fruit though seems more roasted and mouth wrapping, but fine, tannins. Good acidity and god good length. Again a nice wine.
1997 Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Varoilles
Medium ruby red shading to amber. Again the nose is a little muted, same high tones but a more roasted aspect to the fruit. Fat with almost good acidity and still a little tannin. The rôti note is more obvious still on the palate. The finish is deep and admirably long but my preference would be for the previous wines.