Pale to medium yellow. Just a trace of oak on the nose, musky depth, but not opening quite so much as the villages wine. Fatter in the mouth, not the same instant impression of fresh acidity as the villages wine, but it comes through into the finish. Stony with a very good length – a good wine – and it certainly needs more time in the cellar than the villages.

Medium yellow. The nose has depth, high-toned citrus and an initial impression of oak – but it blows off. Wow, after a recent diet of 2003 Côte de Beaunes this is brilliant, not fat but lovely, lovely acidity. Just a little harshness and grain at the back of the palate that is reminiscent of oak. Medium length. It was 22°C today (March!) – so now it’s white wine season – and this works just fine.