Medium-plus colour. The nose has width and a lovely creamy depth that’s edged with faint toffee. It’s not the deepest coloured, but this is very concentrated and coupled to lovely acidity. Super, balanced presentation. Understated but very, very impressive, it will need years in the cellar to provide complexity.
Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze
2006 Potel Nicolas Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze
2005 Rousseau Armand Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze
2005 Bouchard Père et Fils Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is showing rather more dark oak and faint caramel over the darker-hued fruit. Softer and silkier in the mouth – clearly more oak. The acidity is a little more forward than the last wine, but it’s stunningly long finishing – though the flavours are dominated by the same dark barrel notes as from the nose. A lot of buttery oak texture but the wine survives and impresses despite that. Another stunner but I prefer the Faiveley today.
2005 Clair Bruno Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze
1999 Jadot Louis Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze
After 4 months without a corked bottle, bugger – corked – now I only have 4 of these left. The colour is medium, medium-plus ruby red with just a little less cherry red at the rim than the first wine. The nose starts with a waft of dark, spicy oak but this is quickly gone to reveal a dark and understatedly spicy base. Time in the glass opens the wine out into a redder and finer vernacular without much in the way of density. Lithe and rather linear the plate shows forward acidity, but such is the superb intensity that this is kept quite in balance. What tannin can be discerned against the background of acidity and intensity has just a little astringency and the faintest edge of bitterness. The length is impressive, but it is rather ‘thin’ and an extension of the flavours I associated with the tannin, just a little tart too. The nose is now rather good, but the palate needs some time and currently shows much less ripe than the Mugnier Amoureuses.
2005 Bouchard Père et Fils Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze
This is the one wine that really stamps it’s own personality on the aromatics. Usually higher-toned floral notes tend to sit in a layer above the rest of the aromatics, here it is more like they are encapsulated by the rest of the aromas – really fine and super elegant. Concentrated certainly, but the fruit does a super job of covering the wealth of tannins. This quite mineral wine expands wonderfully well into a finish that really delivers. It’s an understated delivery compared to some wines from Chambertin/Bèze in 2005, but it’s really a first class wine.