Pale lemon yellow. The nose starts subdued giving high toned floral aromas, faint green apple and mild peach. With time the peach component becomes stronger. The palate has the hallmarks of great Chablis – purity, just a little trace of fat and a superb length. I felt that maybe a shade more acidity would provide an even better wine, but not enough to stop me ordering half a case for future reference(!) A stealth wine that creeps up on you getting better and better in the glass.

Lemon yellow, just a little deeper than the 2002. The nose is waxy with faint citrus and grapefruit plus the remnants of oak. The palate has the faintest element of harshness from oak, but it’s fading. Lovely minerality with the acidity giving a really penetrating finish. Less ready than the 2002, but this level of concentration will amply repay 5-10 years in the cellar. There’s now 12 in the cellar!

Pale gold. A fresh nose of grapefruit. The palate betrays a little (oak induced?) harshness, but this softens with aeration. As the harsh note fades there’s a waxy-smooth character to the palate with a creamy butterscotch on the medium plus length finish. Despite good concentration and even with time in the glass I didn’t really warm to this wine