A wide and subtly deep nose with just the merest trace of vanilla. Big, wide and mouth-filling yet retains balance and just keeps on running into the finish. A bigger wine even than the Charlemagne. Another impressive wine.
Bâtard-Montrachet
2002 Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet
The colour is just a faint shade deeper than the Bienvenues. Similar oaky depth to the nose but rounder in shape, slowly lets some higher tones escape. An extra depth on the mid-palate, more mouthwatering and certainly longer. This wine has tons of material and makes a compelling statement – really excellent.
1996 Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet
2001 Clerc Henri Bâtard-Montrachet
I’m not sure that Mr Clerc made this wine (Girardin?) I think the labels were actually kept for repeat buyers in the French restaurant trade. Quite pale colour. The nose is penetrating without being forceful – very nice. I find the palate quite oaky but the length isn’t in doubt. After the Truffière Charlemagne, this wine is a little light or could be lacy – you can choose your own descriptor. Evidently a very good wine, but doesn’t do enough for me to justify the price.
1981 Moillard-Grivot Bâtard-Montrachet
Golden colour. The nose is very individual and interesting, waxy with spent fireworks (gunflint?), walnuts and no trace of oxidation. The palate is very much alive, thick and smooth as smooth. Unfortunately no fireworks on the palate, good acidity but quite one-dimensional and the finish is medium length at best. Given the ‘poor-ish’ 1981 vintage, this, I suppose, is a testament to the vineyard. Interesting, but drink-up.