Yield 26.55 hl/ha – or 471 cases. Medium-pale colour. The nose is wide and deep, translucent rather than dense with quite pleasant stem notes. Bottle two seems to be have more depth and show a more floral, violet aspect. It’s hard to point out specific attributes as there is that Romanée-Conti ‘whole-ness’ that provides such a measure of balance. Understated and precise, there is so much harmony and sophistication here. Certainly a wine for reflection rather than to impress.
2004
2004 Fourrier Griotte-Chambertin
Medium, medium-plus cherry red colour. Initially the nose is very tight with faint estery notes, slowly going deeper and a little spicy – eventually this becomes plusher, more red and with quite creamy sweet oak. The fruit is quite high-toned in the mouth, with well-covered tannin. There’s a fantastic length on display – even longer than wine de Vogèé’s 01 Musigny – there’s also quite a lot of oak on display but it’s not in the slightest ‘untasty’ and quite creamy.
2004 Geantet-Pansiot Charmes-Chambertin
Medium-plus cherry red colour. A high toned and wide nose that mixes red and blue-skinned fruits. A wonderfully effusive wine with excellent acidity and super depth. There’s a real extra dimension of fruit on the mid-palate before going into a discrete but long finish. The tannins are completely buried by the fruit. A few of the previous wines are longer but this wine is a compelling ‘complete package’.
2004 Giroud Camille Corton-Charlemagne
A dense yet subdued nose, eventually providing a few higher tones. Good texture, showing in a linear yet quite wide way – it doesn’t narrow or widen as it goes into the mid-palate then the finish – and the finish is a very good one – it just keeps driving through. Not the muscle show of the 02 Guyon but anyway an accomplished wine that’s very Charlemagne.
2004 Tollot-Beaut Corton Bressandes
2004 Giroud Camille Corton Rognets
High registers of floral notes, middle registers of ripe red cherry plus a deeper, tighter impression – multi-layering at its best. A step-up in texture and density vs the last wines; linear and concentrated. A very pretty and long wine with super acidity. It’s a little tight, yet despite the linear face there’s no harshness. Super.
2004 Comte Liger-Belair La Romanée
Spicier, initially less fruit-driven nose, yet each sniff brings new aromas as the nose widens out, but at the centre is a tight core of fruit that never-quite opens out. Velvetty tannin that’s on a higher level than the other wines, yet very well balanced. Super acidity and really impressive length – it’s a more linear length than the ‘panoramic’ 05 in barrel – but it’s a rather haunting diminuendo.