2003 Romanée-Conti Romanée-Conti

By on February 28, 2006 #asides

Perhaps it is a little passé to describe this wine as ’rounder’, but that is certainly the impression from the aromatics; similar to La Tâche except that there is a distinctly more mineral core and the fruit has an extra edge of cream bedecked fruit. Take a sip, and there is not the same ‘hit’ that you get from La Tâche – there is much more subtlety and understatement. More sophistication than any other wine in the line-up, the tannins are as fine as those of the RSV, but with none of their astringency. Better than superb? No, just different.

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2003 Chézeaux Clos St.Denis Vieilles Vignes

By on February 28, 2006 #asides

High-toned, a nose of more depth than width, but given time it widens too. The entry starts a little disappointingly until you reach the mid-palate where the fruit really rolls up it sleeves – it’s super intense and tasty. The tannins are just a little grainy but there’s very fine length.

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2003 Bouchard Aine Clos de la Roche

By on February 28, 2006 #asides

From 60 year-old vines raised in 40% new oak. The nose is a hint reductive, but there’s plenty of black fruit and raisin notes. A concentrated, astringent palate. Packed with extract, but I wouldn’t want to drink it now. It is easily spotted as a 2003, but has plenty of interest and could be almost good in time.

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2003 Moreau J. et Fils Chablis Vaudesir

By on February 28, 2006 #asides

It’s a deep nose – not much width – very slowly a few high-tones start to fill the picture. Very mineral in expression, almost hiding the fruit. This is a very good wine and has quite enough acidity.

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2003 Mommessin Clos de Tart

By on February 28, 2006 #asides

Deep colour. Thick and heavy nose of coffee edged sweet plum and herbs. Tasting provides an unctuous, and sweet mix that avoids being ponderous because there’s just so much of everything. Elegant it isn’t, but this is so jam-packed with material that you have to be impressed. Give it 15 years in the cellar and see what develops.

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2003 Romanée-Conti Echézeaux

By on February 28, 2006 #asides

Medium-plus colour. Bright, ebullient nose: at first it’s wide and fat, becoming sleeker with time. Eventually there is a dense core of slightly indistinct fruit overlayed with a minty tone. The instant impression in the mouth is from the texture of the tannins, they’re not the most cultured – plenty of rasp – followed by ripe, sweet fruit that ends with an interesting touch of sourness. There’s a long, intruiging finish that has a little saccharin about it. I’d have no concern over drinking this today as it’s a lovely wine, but vs other recent vintages it’s just a little more simple.

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2003 Chézeaux Griotte-Chambertin

By on February 28, 2006 #asides

(Ponsot elevage) The nose takes a little coaxing but gets wider and wider with quite lovely fruit. The tannin is much finer vs their Clos St.Denis with similar depth to the wonderfuly precise fruit. Long too, this is fantasic wine.

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2003 Chézeaux Griotte-Chambertin

By on February 28, 2006 #asides

(Leclerc elevage) The nose is even wider than the Ponsot bottling though the ripe, red fruit is a little blurred in comparison. Sweeter palate with tannins that are not quite so fine, though the fruit does seem to have an edge more concentration. There’s real impact in the mid-palate and a great finish too, though a little astringent tannin appears too. More impact, less refinement – depends how you like your Griotte!

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2003 Chézeaux Chambertin

By on February 28, 2006 #asides

The bottle is cold, but the nose starts surprisingly open, a hint of reduction perhaps, but this is transient. Becomes even wider, good depth too – beautiful fruit – sweet and fine. The texture is first-rate, super-smooth tannins dovetail into gorgeously creamy fruit. If there was just a hint more acidity you could guess this to be a 2002 (or maybe 2005 in another year or two). The tannin just shows a little after you swallow. Another gorgeous wine.

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2003

2003 Romanée-Conti Romanée-Conti

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2003 Chézeaux Clos St.Denis Vieilles Vignes

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2003 Bouchard Aine Clos de la Roche

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2003 Moreau J. et Fils Chablis Vaudesir

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2003 Mommessin Clos de Tart

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2003 Romanée-Conti Echézeaux

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2003 Chézeaux Griotte-Chambertin

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2003 Chézeaux Griotte-Chambertin

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2003 Chézeaux Chambertin

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