Medium red only, but the colour looked super in the glass, despite domestic comments about it being a rosé! The nose was wide and reasonably deep – rather mineral and persisent – not so much fruit but lovely to sniff. In the mouth it was mainly about balance and persistence; nicely ripe fruit, a little of the aromatic minerality and an intensity that built before slowly fading. Like many Lambrays, it’s about balance and compexity, not power.
Medium, medium-plus colour – some purple reflections. Despite the description of the oak regime here, this starts deep and toasty. A swirl releases dark-skinned fruit and over time it transforms to a more floral and spicy effect. The texture is rather good with some fat and plenty of well-covered and well-mannered tannin. There’s a burst of interest in the mid-palate helped by the acidity. Finally there’s the nice finish. Not a blockbuster, but nice fruit.
Medium, medium-plus ruby-red colour. A wine and mineral nose that slowly releases dark cherry fruit, gradually becoming higher toned before giving glimpses of coffee notes. The palate is clean, muscular and intense with really good, fresh acidity. The length doesn’t come close to match some of the previous wines, but it’s a very good finish if just a little oak-driven. A very nice package that needs two or three years before it starts drinking well.
Drunk directly following Drouhin’s 02 Puligny Clos de la Garenne. This is just a little darker yellow. The nose frankly assaults your senses with wide, brawny notes of flowers, wet wool, creamy vanilla and just a little honey. The palate is likewise, no model of restraint; muscled, rippling acidity wrapped in a slightly buttery fatness but somehow also an edge of minerality that shows on the long finish. It’s a show of muscles here, but it’s a very impressive show.
As the 2003’s and 2004’s head ever-higher (price-wise), mopping-up 2001’s and 2002’s is not a bad idea. The colour is still a very pale lemon-yellow. On the nose it’s wide, fresh and nicely high-toned but it is underpinned with lovely fruit. The palate has not-yet tightened up, intensely concentrated, falling more into the mineral category than fruit-driven. Lovely balance though just a trace of harshness on the finish – only a minor blot at 65% the price of the 2004!
Medium-plus colour. The nose shouts deep, black-edged, creamy cherry and a little coffee – not so wide. The soft entry delivers you sweet, interesting red-shaded fruit The tannins are very well covered by the concentrated fruit – builds well from the mid-palate into a super, mouth-watering finish – it just melts away. Today it’s certainly a hedonist’s wine rather than an intellectual wine – but if, with time, it builds some complexity it will be a very fine bottle.
Medium-plus cherry-red. The nose is wide, but starts rather indistinct – black skinned fruit edged with vanilla slowly comes into focus – slowly tightening to show a meaty base. In the mouth this is a lithe and interesting wine that shows super balance and medium-plus length. Very good Clos de Vougeot!
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