A high-toned fresh nose with very precise fruit – rare in 1997. The palate also shows precise young fruit and is rather racy too. The tannins probably need at least another 5 years. Less friendly than the Magnien, but younger
Comments for this entry
1997
1997 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne
1997 Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet
1997 Grivot Jean Richebourg
Medium-plus core of garnet red. The nose starts wide, slightly unfocused with deep and brooding fruit and a cedar note that’s reminiscent of many a 2004, slowly a little meat and glimpses of red fruit as the cedar withdraws. Eventually it’s slightly fresher, no cedar, and perhaps a little spiced tea. The initial texture is quite silky though in the mid-palate there is quite some grainy tannin that despite showing a little bitterness seems to help cement the very long finish. The flavours are mineral rather than fruit driven; quite some creamyness underpinning more cedar on the palate, it’s mouthwatering without being overly fresh. The overall effect is a little blurred – like a soft-focus picture. Summarising, there’s plenty of grand cru dimension, some secondary flavours and a structure that would benefit from another 3-5 years storage – but there’s no wow factor here.
1997 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne
(From Magnum) Medium golden. The nose starts both wider and deeper than the previous Meursault 1er, but less intense, eventually settling into a very mineral expression of better intensity, but neither the finishing depth nor sweet width off the Meursault. The texture is not the smoothest but in the mid-palate there is a real extra dimension vs the Meursault – a clear burst of interesting concentration. Once more there is the suggestion of a little oxidation – though only when first poured. This is a long, very mineral wine – perhaps more than one has a right to expect from 1997. From this format we have a very young wine.
1997 Grivot Jean Clos de Vougeot
Deep ruby-red, fades to mahogany at the rim. The nose is forward and feral; coffee and chocolate covered leaves mix with roast meat. This is a surprisingly subtle wine, the concentration quickly creeping up on you into the mid-palate – and good concentration it is – but disappearing way-too fast in the finish. Furry, velvety tannins that are well-balanced to the rest of the wine. In isolation, not bad, if rather anonymous, but this was drunk with Mortet’s ’98 villages Gevrey, and on this day, everyone preferred the Mortet…
1997 Romanée-Conti La Tâche
A wine that set the tone (hue) for the colour of the other wines – despite it’s relative youth, this wine was an old mahogany colour of medium-plus depth. On opening, this wine showed mushroom, forest-floor, inflections of soil, a deep peppery undertone and eventually a baked cherry note. Less round than the 2002 – the acidity sticks out a little. There is good length and weight, but the elements are somewhat disparate. This was actually the only wine that required extended air-time to show its potential. One hour later there was more harmony, less mushroom and a very strong ‘family’ resemblance to the wines that followed it. Don’t be disappointed if you have this wine – I wouldn’t be!
1997 Clos Frantin Echézeaux
Medium, medium-plus red, still with a hint of cherry colour. The nose has just a trace of primary cherry over earthy and faintly ashy notes. The palate doesn’t have the most luxurious of textures but has a real Grand Cru depth and length to the finish. Certainly not a typical fruit-profile for a 1997 – there’s plenty of freshness. Acidity is okay but there is just a trace of oaky bitterness on the finish. No rush to drink and it’s a pretty good drop too.
1997 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne
A deeper yellow colour. The high-toned nose has hints of oak and is much more backward than a recent half bottle that showed lots of exotic fruit. The palate doesn’t have the kick or the complexity of 1995 that follows, still it is showing in a very young and backward way. This wine from the domain is quite backward compared to other examples – presumably from cooler storage.