(From Magnum) Medium golden. The nose starts both wider and deeper than the previous Meursault 1er, but less intense, eventually settling into a very mineral expression of better intensity, but neither the finishing depth nor sweet width off the Meursault. The texture is not the smoothest but in the mid-palate there is a real extra dimension vs the Meursault – a clear burst of interesting concentration. Once more there is the suggestion of a little oxidation – though only when first poured. This is a long, very mineral wine – perhaps more than one has a right to expect from 1997. From this format we have a very young wine.
Bonneau du Martray
2002 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne
Medium-pale lemon-yellow. A high-toned, slightly alcoholic nose that slowly turns from green to yellow-skinned fruit. The palate already shows fine, soft texture and an impressive length. Sweet from the ripe fruit with super balancing acidity. This is a very round and tasty wine that shows a modest burst of fireworks on the mid-palate. Already the oak is mainly consumed – very good Corton-Charlemagne. I’d drink this over the next 18 months and then leave the rest for 8+ years.
2000 Bonneau du Martray Corton
1997 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne
A deeper yellow colour. The high-toned nose has hints of oak and is much more backward than a recent half bottle that showed lots of exotic fruit. The palate doesn’t have the kick or the complexity of 1995 that follows, still it is showing in a very young and backward way. This wine from the domain is quite backward compared to other examples – presumably from cooler storage.
1995 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne
Medium golden colour. The nose is a little closed with what I first thought to be faint oxidative notes but with air becomes honied. The palate is fat and concentrated showing real complexity and super acidity. The finish is reminiscent of fresh, wild strawberries. This wine will last a very long time – and will be super.
1993 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne
1993 Bonneau du Martray Corton
From magnum. Deep colour. High tones over a base of raisins and dried red fruit on the nose. A really nice core of concentrated fruit on the palate pushed long into the finish by first-class ’93 acidity. The grainy tannins don’t have the sophistication of the recent wines, but this is certainly a very enjoyable finale and still a very young wine in this format.
1986 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne
2002 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne
A young, pale colour. A wine whose aromatics major on fruit. Seems fat, but needs just a little more time as there’s still a little oak marking the palate. Gives the impression of lower acidity, but perhaps that’s due to the extra fat. Probably starting to sing as you read this – or leave until 2015+