Golden. The nose gives an impression of wood, plus a green-skinned fruit aspect. The palate is fresh an linear, certainly mineral, but the acidity is a little sour and grainy. Plenty of intensity on the mid-palate and reasonable length too, but today I found this a little austere – not so enjoyable.

Medium-pale lemon-yellow. The nose is reasonably wide with a small, tight, core of citrus fruit. In the mouth your first impression is of a lively wine, of (once again) citrus inflected fruit againt good acidity and nice minerality. There’s a fine burst of intensity late in the mid-palate that flows into the finish. Today, at least with an extra layer of ripeness, this is far superior to the 2001, though it’s certainly not the ripest of 02’s.

Medium yellow. The nose mixes sweet citrus notes with seashells. Understated, some concentration of agrumes-style fruit, nice acidity and medium length. Slowly mouth-watering. Clean and interesting. A good value wine.

Pale to medium yellow. Just a trace of oak on the nose, musky depth, but not opening quite so much as the villages wine. Fatter in the mouth, not the same instant impression of fresh acidity as the villages wine, but it comes through into the finish. Stony with a very good length – a good wine – and it certainly needs more time in the cellar than the villages.

Medium yellow. The nose has depth, high-toned citrus and an initial impression of oak – but it blows off. Wow, after a recent diet of 2003 Côte de Beaunes this is brilliant, not fat but lovely, lovely acidity. Just a little harshness and grain at the back of the palate that is reminiscent of oak. Medium length. It was 22°C today (March!) – so now it’s white wine season – and this works just fine.