This has medium colour, but the colour is hovering somewhere between golden and orange. The first aromas are tight, slightly honied but as it opens the oxidative character comes to the fore. In the mouth there’s good acidity, sweetness and above-average density – it’s quite silky too. Particularly impressive length with intensity and many dimensions that include creamy, caramelised fruits. It starts as borderline drinkable for someone who dislikes oxidation, but fills out with ever-more complexity and interest – indeed very drinkable.
Puligny-Montrachet
2006 Mischief and Mayhem Puligny-Montrachet
2007 Mischief and Mayhem Puligny-Montrachet
A similar colour to the Meursault – about 25% new oak. Faint wisps of oak mingle with the classic higher tones and ‘cut’ of Puligny. This seems to offer a shade more excitement than the Meursault, with fine penetrating flavours. Super acidity and faint cream is to be seen on the very good finish. Super.
2007 Bichot Albert Puligny-Montrachet
2006 Carillon Louis Puligny-Montrachet
Pale yellow. The nose starts with a waft of oak that subsides to brioche over an understated but slightly volatile pear-drops note. Good texture and lovely acidity, the fruit has a similar, slightly lifted pear fruit, but it’s largely buried by the toasty, savoury flavours in the mid-palate and a really good, sweeter length. The fruit is better – the volatility is gone – on day two, but the aromatics are slightly less good.
2006 Carillon Louis Puligny-Montrachet
Pale yellow. The nose starts with a waft of oak that subsides to brioche over an understated but slightly volatile pear-drops note. Good texture and lovely acidity, the fruit has a similar, slightly lifted pear fruit, but it’s largely buried by the toasty, savoury flavours in the mid-palate and a really good, sweeter length. The fruit is better – the volatility is gone – on day two, but the aromatics are slightly less good.
2006 Mischief and Mayhem Puligny-Montrachet
Just a little deeper yellow. Wide, fruit driven nose – still some brioche but of a lower order than the Carillon, a little toffee too. Similar pear-fruit but just a little fatter texture. Good texture and a more creamy fruit driven experience in the mid-palate. The finish is very good, but it would be easy to miss the reprise it brings to another level. Less structured and today more ‘comely’.
2007 Gambal Alex Puligny-Montrachet
Picked a full 10 days later than the grower wanted, gaining 1.5° – still ‘only’ 12° when harvested! Starts just a little diffuse but belowis both width and depth. Good concentration, again slightly bright acidity but very good length is driven by it. Another clean and characterful wine that will need some bottle time.