2005

2005 Bouchard Père et Fils Mercurey

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

Medium-plus colour. Direct and concentrated fruit on the nose – dark red – little complexity. Nice texture – little overt tannin as it’s covered by the fruit, little overt acidity also but it is always balanced. Like the nose, nothing complex here but it’s perfectly packaged, easy-drinking and yet a concentrated effort. Zero faults apart from the want of a little character today. Will certainly keep and possibly grow in personality.

2005 Drouhin-Laroze Gevrey-Chambertin

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

Medium-plus cherry-red, still some purple reflections. High-toned black and blue fruit mingles with faint notes of violets – below lies a nice earthy base – lovely. Plenty of forward acidity, but here’s a 2005 that has not yet completely sunk into it’s acidic sleep. Very good fruit, relatively linear but it’s got intensity and length. The tannin is a low-level faint grain and I find no obvious oaky elements. This was a relative bargain and is recommended.

2005 Girardin Vincent Santenay Les Charmes

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

Medium-plus ruby-red colour. The nose started blocky with a little dark oak and roasted dark fruit – a little uncouth – but five minutes in the glass and it is transformed with very pretty flashes of red and black fruits. In the mouth it starts in a similar fashion; muddled dark fruits and oak but quite silky. This improves no end, though never becoming as captivating as the nose. Smooth dark fruit and an ever-present but not unfriendly dark oak flavour as undertow. Smooth and easy drinking once it’s open.

2005 Mortet Thierry Gevrey-Chambertin

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

Medium colour. None of the lovely fruit notes of the 2004, rather a darker, quite sumptuous effect. Dense, but it’s a cushioned concentration and there’s super depth of creamy fruit, and completely buried structure today. Lovely, though it will be a long wait for complexity…

2005 Bessin Jean-Claude Chablis Vieilles Vignes

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

Pale yellow-green colour. The nose is fresh with sea-shells and an undertow of ripe melon-style fruit. Reasonably fresh and certainly intense in the slightly ‘padded’ mid-palate. Despite the padding it could only come from Chablis due to the mineral core that goes through the center. Pretty good acidity and a good length. Frankly, blind you would say a decent 1er cru or even an ‘average’ grand cru, such is the concentration from those old vines. Very impressive stuff and on another planet to ‘basic’ Chablis from the likes of Fevre.

2005 Guyot Olivier Marsannay La Montagne

By on November 30, 2008 #asides

Medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour. Modest higher tones over a tight core of dark fruit, swirling releases a little more spicy, leathery notes. Rather linear but very good fine tannin and slightly forward acidity. The flavour is mainly confined to the mid-palate and finish, but it’s quite intense if slightly metallic tasting, the finish is today average. This gives the impression that it has already tightened for slumber. There’s not that much to see today, I would leave for 5 or 6 years.

2005 Latour Louis Gevrey-Chambertin

By on November 30, 2008 #asides

Medium-plus colour. The first sniff seems architypal Gevrey; dark fruit against an earthy, almost grainy nose. With open time it becomes higher toned with more red fruit, seems much softer if a little less interesting. Decent concentration and certainly it’s more red-fruited in the mouth. Good acidity and late appearing tannin with a little grain. Not the glossy fruit and concentration of many 2005 Gevreys, but at a decent price this is worth buying.

2005 Fougeray de Beauclair Fixin Clos Marion

By on November 30, 2008 #asides

The nose is much tighter with dried red fruits. This is also rather mouth-filling but just a little softer. The acidity is a little more forward though the tannin is finer. I feel a little more intensity but this is less friendly today than the 2006. Good length.

2005 Tardy Jean Chambolle-Musigny Les Athets

By on November 30, 2008 #asides

Medium, medium-plus colour. A deep, slightly baked fruit impression intertwined with a dark oak note – I think the oak is influencing the fruit. In the mouth the texture’s okay but I have the impression there’s some dissolved gas here making the tannin a little forward and the acidity slightly prickly. There’s some extra dimension, but it’s clearly not showing its best. Day 2 and the nose starts less interesting, but slowly a red-currant note tries to assert itself. The ‘rasp’ that I associated with dissolved gas is still there on the palate, though the tannin seems less forward. Tight? For sure, but versus some other village chambolles I could mention there’s little here that demands a second look…

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