The nose is much more understated than the 2005 – less obviously ‘ripe’ too. There’s the same opulent and quite rich palate – almost oily – the flavours really cling to your palate. This is surprisingly long. The plump family resemblance is in place, but this is quite well balanced for a 2003. Almost good in the context of the vintage
Deep cherry-red. High tones over a dense fruit core; initially a little diffuse this tightens and gives a chocolate edge. Very, very impressive concentration with just about enough acidity to carry it and its sandy textured tannins into the finish – those tannins are well-covered by the extract. Medium-plus length, this is very-well crafted – it is immaculately dressed though today it’s hard to communicate with. A very impressive if one-dimensional wine today.
Deep cherry-red – only slighty paler than the 03 Dugat-Py. The nose is rounder and more forward than the D-P, just a little reduced at the start but there’s lots of disparate complexity. Somehow the palate is also less ‘together’ than the D-P; it’s fresher, got more tannin and lots of coffee-bean in the mouth – significantly more apparent complexity but like the nose, little apparent cohesion. Longer than the D-P; if all the parts come together this could be a very, very good wine.
Deep colour. The nose starts rather closed and meaty, only widening a little over its alloted time in the glass though the nose did eventually become a little more fruit-driven. Versus the Narbantons, this seems to have a better balance and seems less obviously extracted, though the first impression is of a shorter finish. The oak is a little less dominant and slowly the finish seems to open out and become a little creamy. This wine is quite a bit more expensive than de Vogüés young vines Musigny – (i.e. the Chambolle premier cru) and Mugnier and Drouhin’s Musignys – I know where my cash would be.
Deep cherry-red. The nose is dense, tight and toasty, only slowly opening but in doing so hints at the same intense floral note of the 04 Bourgogne. Lots of action on the palate, perhaps caused by the petillance. The tannins are much more noticeable though not astringent. This is a very nice wine but it’s hard to see the value.
I was very taken with this wine from 2002 – young vines Ruchottes-Chambertin – this, a little less so. The colour is quite deep with a little purple at the rim. The nose is very 2003 with ripe and deep fruit notes that eventually sharpen and darken – very faint coffee overtones too. The texture is almost good – with reasonable balance and, of-course, concentration. Not the very interesting length and complexity of its brother from 02, but its also a very primary showing. Quite a good 03 but I’d certainly buy the 02 in preference.
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose starts with lots of spicy oak, slowly fading to leave a few diffuse, high-toned notes over a fainter sweet base, eventually a faint coffe note too. The palate is medium concentrated with grainy but ripe tannins. Black, almost scorched fruit and a little mouth watering. Lots of sweetness, medium length. Like their 03 NSG premier, still not a 03 style that I enjoy.
Deep colour. The nose obviously 2003 but is broad and interesting, plenty of good fruit and almost an edge of raisin fruit too. Concentrated, and like most 2003’s below 20°C seems quite fresh. The tannin is reasonably refined too. Medium finish but long on value at ~€12 – very strong quality at this level.
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