I remember my first bottle from this case, on release there was overwhelming sulfur on the nose, I took it back to the merchant as it was completely undrinkable – even 4 hours after opening – this was where I learned about bottle stink, but they still replaced the bottle! This second bottle didn’t start much better, perhaps worse, the sulfur has slowly evolved to hydrosulfite – that means very smelly cabbage. The palate manages to show just a little creamy length, but for me the dominating factor is the sulfur infused edge. Even on day two and despite the nose clearing up a little the palate was the same – perhaps worse as there was even a hint of oxidation. I’ll give this case one more chance this time next year – if it fails I’ll be looking for the merchant to take them back – potentially good wine spoiled by too much sulfur.
1996
1996 Grivot Jean Nuits St.Georges Lavières
Medium plus colour without obvious aging. The nose still betrays a little oak, otherwise high-toned black fruit, some sweetness too. Lots and lots of fruit on the palate and a reasonable balance between the succulence of the fruit and acidity vs the more drying and slightly bitter tannins. Starts a little disjointed but puts on a better show after half an hour or so if a little moth puckering.
1996 Engel René Vosne-Romanée
1996 Mugnier J-F Chambolle-Musigny
1996 Engel René Vosne-Romanée
Medium ruby colour fading very little to the rim. The nose is pure, characteristic Vosne, starting with a touch of undergrowth, deep spicy notes, a touch of black fruit and slowly developing, eventually dominating, raspberry. The palate is very fresh from the forward acidity, showing reasonably concentrated red cherry fruit – still quite primary. The tannins finish with a little unintrusive grain and the finish is almost good. Without showing real fat, the wine is still mouthfilling and obviously some way from maturity. I’ll try the next in another couple of years – good wine.
1996 Barthod Ghislaine Chambolle-Musigny
1996 Dujac Morey St.Denis Blanc
1996 Fougeray de Beauclair Fixin Clos Marion
1996 Parent Ladoix
The colour is a fantastic deep brick lightening at the rim. Nose is a little alcoholic, coupled with cooking red fruits. The palate still has lingering tannins and (perhaps) slightly tart acidity, but the fruit is up to the job of competing. It seems some of the lowly appellations from ’96 are finally starting to become enjoyable – no rush though. I hope the last 3 or 4 are still on the merchants shelf, at €14 it’s a steal.