One year David Croix had an order for Bourgogne, only to realise he didn’t have enough wine to fill the order. As an option for the New York merchant he suggested that he could assemble the racked lees from all his reds, give it time to settle as best as possible and see if it was any good. It turned out not bad despite having a slight turbidity as he chose not to filter. The New York merchant has since had exclusivity on this unusual wine – unusual in that it is a compendium of so many wines, including grand crus. When I visited, there was a ‘spare’ half bottle we could taste: A decent medium colour, if not diamond bright. Aromatic depth with relatively high-toned fruit and a hint of orange. The texture is slightly lush, plenty of concentration for the label and acidity that is balancing, if not bracing though needs to smooth out a little in the finish – a hint of CO2 compounds the sensation as does the fact it’s only been in bottle for 3 weeks as gravity has to work for a long time on the fine lees. If it smooths a little, this will be a very pretty bottle.
2007
2007 Bichot Albert Bourgogne Vieilles Vignes
Medium, medium-pale colour. Forward, friendly strawberry, no bubblegum, and with a slight grassy/herbal backdrop. Decently smooth texture, a sweet-sour fruit impression with acidity that whisks you along just fast enough to avoid you contemplating the sour! Actually the sour is not so bad – let’s call it a talking point. No impression of ‘thin’, also no impression of tannin. Some length, this is actually quite drinkable. It’s not as good as the 2005 or 2006, less beaujolais-esque than the 2005, it’s somehow, almost redolent of proper burgundy…
2007 Boisset Jean-Claude Bourgogne Aligote
From vines between St.Aubin and Chassagne-Montrachet that were picked 21st September at 12.5°, and raised in 25% new oak. Light colour. The aromas are high-toned yet savoury – like only aligoté seems to achieve. Seems nicely intense and shows super energy. Good flavour and length – what is not to like? – super.
2007 Boisset Jean-Claude Hautes Côtes de Nuits Chardonnay
Picked at 14° potential – there were lots of millerande bunches says Grégory. 2,700 bottles – only in screw cap. Faint sulfur on the nose, otherwise it’s fine enough. Less fat than the Mâcon, but clearly more power – very impressive – it also lingers well. You would never guess Hautes Côtes – test some friends blind! – really super.
2007 Boisset Jean-Claude Bourgogne Pinot Noir
2007 Mischief and Mayhem Bourgogne Pinot Noir
Mainly sourced from Aloxe fruit, bottled in September, no new oak. Medium colour. The nose shows pretty, high-toned, generous pinot aromas – very pretty actually. In the mouth there’s more tannin than many from the vintage but it’s supple and overall very tasty. This is actually a super Bourgogne, and easily worth the €10 cellar door price.
2007 Potel Nicolas Bourgogne Blanc
2007 Terres d'Arômes Bourgogne 'Cave 18'
The name is a little fun – the stocks of Claire’s wines are held in ‘area 18’ in the cellars at Laboure-Roi, but Claire also thought the name was quite nice, in the manner of ‘Bin 28’ – I must remember to bring her a bottle next time! The old (a mix of 50 and 80 years-old) vines, despite being sited in an old vineyard in the area of Beaune are only classed as ‘regional’, that said, they ripen very early and in 2007 were some of the cleanest fruit the team worked with. Good colour. The nose starts in a pronounced floral way, slowly changing in the glass to offer more ‘straight-forward’ red fruits and eventually a nice, soft caramel aspect. A slightly soft entry with interesting fruit and a nice balance. Interesting and worthy bourgogne if well priced.