Nicolas found it hard to get the fruit he wanted, eventually he sourced mainly from Pommard, the balance from the Côte de Nuits. It was an easy vinification, not much plunging and bottled a little earlier to keep the fruit. He decided to change his technique for the Bourgogne more in line with his father’s technique – so a saignée, 100% oak (none new) and ~20% stems. The nose is serious if a little closed and mixes a little oak toast with chocolate. Some sweetness on the palate, medium density and quite clean – any easy wine to drink.
2004
2004 Gambal Alex Bourgogne Chardonnay
2004 Bertagna Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits Les Dames Huguettes
2004 Bichot Albert Bourgogne Vieilles Vignes
Amply demonstrating the challenge that vignerons faced with this vintage, in 2002 Bichot were able to produce 10,000 cases of this wine – for the same quality in 2004 only 2,000 could be made. Fresh, bright cherry nose – almost a Ribena aspect. Sweet and clean it nicely fills the mouth. A little grainy tannin, but a very well-crafted Bourgogne.
2004 Gagnerot Evelyne Bourgogne
Deeply coloured for a burgundy of any appellation. The nose is quite glossy over sweet cherry fruit. In the mouth this manages to be reasonably well balanced; well concentrated but with slightly unripe tannins. Still there’s currently enough extract to buffer it, so almost good today, but I wouldn’t be looking to save any in the cellar.
2004 Potel Nicolas Bourgogne Blanc Cuvee Gerard Potel
2004 Gagnerot Evelyne Bourgogne Blanc
Already rather advanced colour – medium golden. The nose starts a little sherbety, but soon becomes more subdued and subtle. Instantly this is very drinkable, the acidity is a little harsh and perhaps a little unripe, but there’s just about sufficient sweetness to buffer – like sucking on a grapefruit, but very refreshing. The last half of the bottle was left overnight in the fridge and became almost undrinkable – now like sucking a lemon! I didn’t dislike the first mouthfuls but in no way could recommend what followed – I would get this drunk this over the next 12 months.
2004 Bouchard Père et Fils Bourgogne Chardonnay
2004 Bichot Albert Bourgogne Vieilles Vignes
In this case VV indicating vines older than 20 years, it’s the first year for this cuvée. Very cheap looking cork – but smells sweet enough. Medium-pale cherry-red. The nose starts very green – like a early-malo wine – all green pea rather than a lack of ripeness. Slowly the shade turns more red, never quite losing that green edge though. The palate is quite clean, some sweetness, nice acidity and a perceptible dryness to the medium tannins – they are quite fine tannins though. While it is possible to find better Bourgognes, at it’s price-point (~6€, ) it’s stunning value and a little more ‘classic’ than the 2003’s that follow.