Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.Jacques

2005 Bourée Pierre Fils Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.Jacques

By on November 30, 2008 #asides

Deeply coloured – purple at the rim. The nose starts with plenty of oak that has a hint of toast but no more – it’s very wide and covers dark-skinned fruit. It slowly evolves, but never shows the complexity and stems of the 2004. Mouth-filling, again there’s oak flavour and some well grained tannin too. The acidity starts a tiny bit forward, though only exacerbates the superb length – those flavours are a lot to do with oak and are eventually just a little bitter, but this is very impressive. Quite some concentration in the mid-palate and certainly it’s a little rustic, but it’s clearly full of wine – better than some GC’s! This will need several years for the wood to move into the background, but it’s a real quality effort that shows personality. I initially bought three, but am now going back for a couple more – clearly built for the long-haul. As a post-script, day two shows little obvious oak, still no stems and a better balance. All good signs – okay, maybe I’d have liked a little stems…

2006 Clair Bruno Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.Jacques

By on November 30, 2008 #asides

Medium, medium-plus colour. Also rather tight but there’s a more caramel depth surrounding the tight core of glossy fruit. The structure initially seems completely separate to the fruit – then both come together perfectly. This super wine is clearly vin de garde material, so keep it in the cellar for a few years.

1993 Esmonin Frédéric Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.Jacques

By on March 31, 2008 #asides

Medium colour. The nose is rather mature and quite ripe with an undertow of undergrowth and eventually chocolate. After the last 1993 this is fuller and riper with apparently lower acidity. There is a medium-plus length of finish and very understated structure. I would characterise this as a very friendly and ‘cosy’ wine – particularly for a 93 – one to curl up with. Possibly not a wine for the ages but it’s coming into a nice drinking window now.

2001 Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.Jacques

By on March 31, 2008 #asides

A lovely fine and elegant nose of quite some complexity – red fruits and earth. The palate is long, faintly mineral and very wide in the mid-palate and into the finish. Perhaps a little unruly – let’s say over-exuberant as it finishes but much complexity here too. An impressive and characterful wine.

1991 Rousseau Armand Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.Jacques

By on March 31, 2008 #asides

A lovely, bright medium ruby-red colour. Undergrowth and maturing red fruits are the main aromas to start, but slowly the undergrowth fades to reveal a lovely redcurrant note. Nice texture – very smooth. I find just a tough of harshness to the acidity that’s mirrored in the finish, but this slowly improves if never completely fades. There is a nicely understated length here and I would say this is pretty much ready to go. Very nice, but far from the quality of the Chambertin and Bèze at this address in 1991, in terms of a rebuy, I would expect prices to be too high for the reward – but you never know

2005 Clair Bruno Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.Jacques

By on October 31, 2007 #asides

A deep, round and oakily creamy nose – quite clean though. Ripe and clean with real concentration and dimension. There’s lots of tannin but it’s balanced and long – impressive.

2004 Esmonin Sylvie Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.Jacques

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

Deeper colour than the villages – edged with purple. The nose is much tighter and less giving, but earthier. The palate is denser and smoother – executive beefcake here. Perfect acidity and a very impressive length. Just like the villages, this wine is mainly about a black fruit profile with fine dry tannin that is completely covered by the soft fruit. I was very happy until I returned to the last half glass that had overnighted in the fridge – the earth has turned to cedar on the nose, less plush in the palate and the tannins stuck out. Day 1 fantastic, day 2 not! Many wines made in a reductive style won’t survive overnight in the fridge – Fourrier is a good example – based on this I’ll give it the benefit of the doubt because it was super on day 1.

2004 Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.Jacques

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

Medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour. The nose starts wide and creamy – I though a little lactic too but this was transient – quickly taking on a forward cream coverd red cherry aspect and eventually coffee notes too. Understated, concentrated and tons of mid-palate dimension – many of these wines are one-dimensional in comparision. The fruit is so well done that it completely buries any necessity to discuss acidity or tannin. The creamy finish is understated but very long. Really top-class wine.

1999 Esmonin Sylvie Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.Jacques

By on November 30, 2006 #asides

(From magnum) Medium ruby-red colour. It’s a wide and mineral nose with an almost corky element. With time the corky element takes over – I never found it on the palate though – still, a shame.

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