1998

1998 Gelin Pierre Fixin Clos Napoléon

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

Medium ruby-red colour. The nose starts very subdued, only slowly starts to take on a more tertiary, slightly alcoholic edge – eventually becomes quite interesting. The palate is well textured with super acidity and impressive mid-palate concentration – if it had any astringent tannin in its youth then it’s already melted. It’s ready now and I’m sure it will hold for a few years more, it’s just a little Gevrey in style and very well priced.

1998 Remoriquet Henri & Gilles Nuits St.Georges Les Damodes

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

The colour is very deep and surprisingly still clings to a young, faint cherry-red hue. The nose is brooding, dense and very focused – eventually a little underbrush compliments the black-skinned fruit. Concentrated, slightly metallic flavours and plenty of well covered fine tannin are the first impressions followed by faintly mouth-watering acidity and a long, fresh finish. This wine impresses with its very fresh, linear and concentrated yet still quite primary delivery – it is quite aloof – haughty even – but there are no hard edges. I would say it will benefit from at least another 3 years in the cellar.

1998 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune Grèves Vigne de l'Enfant Jésus

By on June 30, 2006 #asides

Deep ruby-coloured. High tones over a glossy base, plus some meaty and faintly herbal notes – great at the start, interesting but not great at the end. Depth, freshness and density, plenty of tannin, but only faintly astringent. Very nice fruit and length, needs at least another 3 or 4 years.

1998 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune Grèves Vigne de l'Enfant Jésus

By on March 31, 2006 #asides

Deep ruby-coloured. High tones over a glossy base, plus some meaty and faintly herbal notes – great at the start, interesting but not great at the end. Depth, freshness and density, plenty of tannin, but only faintly astringent. Very nice fruit and length, needs at least another 3 or 4 years.

1998 Dauvissat Jean Chablis Fourchaume

By on February 28, 2006 #asides

Medium-pale golden. There’s a hint of the oxidative on first sniff, but it’s soon gone, replaced by honeyed, waxy aspects and faint pineapple, nice high tones with plenty of width. In your mouth the first impression is a little dilute but the wine expands with a real kick at the back, even hinting at caramel. Good wine that gets ever better with time in the glass, definitely 1er cru quality.

1998 Clair Bruno Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Dominode

By on February 28, 2006 #asides

Drunk directly following Leroy’s Bourgogne of the same year and more interesting in every dimension. Deep, meaty yet sweet fruity nose with an edge of vanilla. Good mouth perfume, fresher yet without the tart aspect of the Leroy. Concentrated, still some quite dry tannin but it’s well covered by the fruit. Long finishing, still with a little vanilla. Very high quality for the price, and bought for cheaper than the Leroy too!

1998 Bouchard Père et Fils Meursault Les Genevrières

By on February 28, 2006 #asides

Golden. The nose is understated, sweet with faint vanilla but quite sophisticated, some depth too. The palate is nicely fresh also very understated too. The acidity is good and there seems to be good concentration – but of what? – what’s missing is a little flavour. Actually there’s suddenly a bit of a burst on the mid-palate and reasonable and quite flavourful length too. So, a surprisingly mineral Genevrières – I normally think of it as more sumptuous – quite nice, and worth buying if you get a good price.

1998 Barthod Ghislaine Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras

By on October 31, 2005 #asides

Medium ruby-red – looks lovely in the glass. The nose is very tight, hints of marzipan, red fruit and a high-toned estery note – not that nice. It’s a concentrated wine, but equally there’s plenty of (currently) astringent tannin that has a trace of bitterness about it. The acidity is also on quite a high level. Returning after an hour there is a little more balance, both the tannin and the acidity are in more harmony with the fruit – I must say though that it never quite became ‘charming’.

Burgundy Report

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