Medium-plus ruby-red colour. The nose is high-toned and wide with a pronounced meaty/savoury aspect – characterful but it didn’t work for me. The main impression from the palate is the acidity – forward but quite soft. The wine is certainly intense and long, but at this stage in its development the aroma and flavour profile don’t endear it to me – more of a spotty adolescent than mature interest. Previous bottles have been much nicer so I will give this the benefit of the doubt. Remaining bottles will not be touched in the next 3-4 years…
1996
1996 Lejeune Pommard Les Rugiens
Medium, medium-plus colour. Sweet, ripe red fruit – almost confiture – not so wide but very lovely depth. Wow – very impressive complextity – explosions of taste on the palate, real concentration followed by a slowly tailing-off diminuendo finish. This might not be the smoothest, most romantic wine in the world but it will nock you off your feet with real personality. Bravo!
1996 Comte Armand Pommard Clos des Epeneaux
Medium-plus colour. A wild and impressive nose at the start; oak, a little blood, interesting width, but slowly the oak becomes a little more dominant and the joy fades. Much more subtle entry than the Lejeune Rugiens, a little more tannin but it’s also more linear and focused. Equally potent in the mid-palate and more obvious length – though some of that is, for sure, oak. More depth, but today also less interest than the Lejeune.
1996 Leroy (Maison) Meursault Perrières
Golden. A honied nose – very Meusault, but less-so Perrières – wide with a peach-stone core. Surprisingly sweet with good fat and intensity. The acidity is good but very well covered. This is not the best Perrières I’ve tasted, it is a good but not a great one. As far as the value is concerned, however, this is by far the most interesting of this flight of wines.
1996 Château Perruchot Meursault Charmes
Medium golden. The aromatics start high-toned before closing to tight core of caramel-edged honey. Bright with fresh acidity, and a nice punch of fruity intensity with a hint of fat but no trace of heavyness. The finish is subdued, though reasonably long. A terrific bargain-bin purchase with many years ahead of it.
1996 Matrot Pierre Meursault Charmes
1996 Boillot Pierre Meursault Gouttes d'Or
1996 Morot Albert Meursault
1996 Rion Daniel Nuits St.Georges Les Grandes Vignes
Deep ruby-red, not 100% bright. The nose betrays what must have been a fair whack of oak in this wine’s youth, but it’s coming together now – just a little creamy with smokey, dusky black fruit. Fresh, mouthwatering acidity, fine density to the mid-palate and a lingering finish. Perhaps it’s just a little tart to be described as very well balanced, however, very enjoyable though it’s my last…