Starts with rich, chocolaty fruit but within 3 or 4 minutes overpowered by taint…
Varoilles
1997 Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin La Romanée
Medium ruby red core just fading slightly to amber. Ash-notes overlay sweet, spicy and slightly plummy red fruit. There’s good texture that’s just a little creamy. The acidity is just a little harsh in the finish but the wine’s quite fat and the fruit has concentration and lasts very well though is quite cooked – reminds me more of Carneros than Gevrey…
2002 Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Varoilles
Medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour. Well-rounded oak and mainly black fruit, even hints of black olive and coffee. Equally round, slightly fat palate. There’s excellent balance, good fruit and acidity plus tannins that are completely buried unless you do some serious chewing – if you do then the acidity becomes quite tart. I look forward to following the development of this wine.
1995 Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin La Romanée
Medium ruby red, little fading and despite a little amber at the rim, still looks relatively young. A fresh raspberry and cherry tart nose with a pleasing, slightly estery, tertiary depth. The dominant style of this wine is the acidity, smooth but in the ascendant. The fruit is actually quite tasty with a piercing red fruit aspect. There’s just a trace of dryness on the finish but the tannins are well mannered. Not fully joined up this wine, but it’s clean, very drinkable and unlikely to go downhill soon.
2000 Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin La Romanée
Medium ruby red. High-toned, fresh and slightly powdery dry nose. Good, mouth-watering acidity, very little overt tannin. The red-shaded fruit is quite nice and has not-bad concentration for a 2000. A little 1996 in style but without the concentration of many from that vintage, good and clean but not really exciting.
1999 Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin La Romanée
1996 Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Varoilles
Bugger! After opening I noticed a few bubbles in the neck – I turned round to get my glass and when I returned the bottle was standing in a puddle of wine! How strange thought I – do they may sparkling reds? – then I realised that there had been a crack in the bottle, mainly covered by the label. Pulling the cork was enough to make the crack give-way. Unfortunately enough air had obviously got through over time as the wine was oxidised. Underneath it was concentrated and seemed to have good fruit – I’ll have to get another…
1999 Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Varoilles
1998 Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Varoilles
Medium cherry red, a paler salmon shade at the rim. The nose is not so pronounced but has the high tones of the other ‘varoilles’ though with a much deeper spicy aspect and some chocolate. Good concentration to the fruit though seems more roasted and mouth wrapping, but fine, tannins. Good acidity and god good length. Again a nice wine.